GrumpyOldMan0001looks more Pikelet like
will95so i have a taz printer and the board connected, currently im trying to figure out how to program the board. What do i need to use to program it and what files do i need for it to work the way it needs to
kthxmarlin is firmware with acceleration and lookahead to avoid accelerating up and down for evey vertex. It is and downloadable at also downloadable preconfigured for RAMPS 1.3-1.4 at:
kthxrepetier is a host/firmware combination. The host makes a nice plater app even if not used as a host. Great G-code preview with realistic extrusion dimensions. Works seamlessley with Slic3r and SFACT. Slicing from host works.. and and is also closed source after version 0.91
GrumpyOldMan0001will95: you need the above firmeare
GrumpyOldMan0001firmware.... and arduino software
will95Thank you, dose the aurdino eviromental have the aurdino software in it? and is that the only 2 things i need? from the manuel site im looking at it has multiple diffrent files so i just want to make sure
ramkamxhas any1 tried ?
Will___Hey Guys, I need help. I have both an printrboard and ramps 1.4 not working at all.
ramkamxthey claim 0.5 micron Z resolution and 17 on X/Y
Will___The printrboard is getting real hot and motors not moving.
mastag25oh which
ramkamx27x27x18 cm builds @ 1800eu looks nice, but any1 has tried it ?
ramkamxmastag25: yeah the frame is big extruded beams, heavy
Artesianthat means it can go fast
ramkamxwhich is not bad for vibration
Artesianand is very sturdy
ramkamxthey say print speeds up to 300mm/s
Artesianunless you need to move it a lot, it's a very good thing
Artesianyep, heavy frame printers can do that
Artesianif they're tuned REALLY well
terramirthat's like about two grand you can build one yourself much cheAPER AND LEARN SOMETHING IN THE PROCESS
Artesianwhats 2100 euros?
Artesianlike 2700 dollars
Artesiandefinitely MB pricepoint
ramkamxterramir: MB ?
Artesianindeed terra, indeed
terramiroops caps
ramkamxerr. Artesian MB ?
ArtesianDo not speak the name of the evildoers
Artesianbane of all that is open source and good in the world
terramirdoes that thing have a heated chamber?
ramkamxterramir: yep, can do that too :-)
Will___Can anyone help with printrboards?
Artesiancurses and sickness be upon them
ramkamxah MB :-)
ramkamxthe guy who sold open source
Artesianjust treat the name like voldemort and you're good to go here
terramirhmmm printrboards are kinda weak sauce
Artesiannow you get it
Will___I know, I did not buy it, just tring to fix it for some one else.
terramirif it doesn't the build volume does not mean size of print
terramirwithout a heated chamber unless using PLA plastic the max size is usually 4x4 and that's streching it
terramirinches so 10x10 cm
terramirhmmm put heatsinks on stepper chips
terramirand on processor and put a fan on it might help
terramirbut it getting real hot might mean a short i.e. defective board
terramiror a cold soldered mosfet point
Will___No way to fix it
terramirmosfet point yes short not sure
mastag25this is going to look sick after some acetone vapor
terramirwhere exactly is it getting hot
Will___Main chip, y pololu
A2_mutley_: you got a pic of a Delrin printed part?
terramirnot really pololus
Will___sorry A9 something chips
terramirhmmmm I dunno crappy relow job crappy pcb not enough copper maybe
terramirhow long has he had it
NETiowho is printing delrin?
terramirdelrin printing that's some sick shit
terramireven more dangerous than nylon
terramirhell nylon is safew if the temp doesn't run away on you
Will___Yea, the heat is mostly coming from the y chip and I have nothing plugged but the usb.
NETiowho needs acetone vapor?
terramiris it being recognized
ramkamxyay, printing acetal :-)
terramiracetal really dang
NETionylon isn't dangerous unless it pyrolyzes and produces HCN
NETioany burning themoplastic, even PLA, is pretty nasty
ramkamxbut i'm not sure it's a good idea, you wont get the strength you expect because of delamination issues
NETiobut things like Polycarbonate and Delrin produce nasty fumes when melted
NETioPTFE is ultra-bad
ramkamxmakes the part unpredictable (or hard do predict), -> eg you lower your expectations -> useless
NETioeven though it's a thermoplastic they don't really melt it much in industry
Computer_Barfhey i was previously brady2600.
ramkamxComputer_Barf: yes ?
terramirnylon if printed properly should give you twice the strength of abs easy, but the temp needs to be stable and properly adjusted
terramirbut don't even think of printing bigger pieces without a heated chamber will cool to far down
terramirabs got a glass temp of 105 what's nylon like 150
NETioterramir: I've printed some pretty big things in Nylon since I removed my chamber
NETionylon has a surprisingly low glass temp
terramirhow low
terramirhow it doesn't soften un der boiling water
terramirthat's 100C
NETioglass transition doesn't mean melting point or softening point
NETioit's the point where it stops behaving like a solid and transitions to a rubber-like state
NETionylon is already pretty flexible
terramirtrue that but it's tuff as all crap too
terramirwhat temp have peeps been printing nylon at?
terramirand how much buffer to danger zone
A2_ramkamx: What's the surface finish like with Delrin, got any pics?
NETioThe RMax never ceases to amaze me. This would've literally be an impossible print on my i2.
ramkamxA2_: never tried delrin
A2_miss read you then...
ramkamxABS (or my power cables that are burning) are giving me enough headaches like that
ramkamxA2_: yeah, probably. tried nylon for structural stuff. Failure always happens on interlayers; i'd expect the same or worse with delrin
terramirwhy would that have been impossible
NETioramkamx: How hot did you print nylon?
NETioterramir: That's tiny and required lots of support. When I owned my i2 slic3r didn't even have support material
NETioalso had lots of z-wobble
terramirmost structiural nylon parts are solid
Artesiannylon parts have much better interlayer adhesion than abs/pla
Artesiansuper strong parts are possible
Artesian618, 645, and bridge are all good
NETioI print trimmer line at 250C and I can't pull it apart with pliers
ramkamxNETio: about 235
NETioThat's too cold for nylon to bond properly
ramkamxwas concerned about fumes & temps
NETioalso 235 is probably the highest I'd go without an all-metal hotend
ramkamxeven if taulman promises it makes no harmfull ones :-)
Artesianindeed dont try higher than that without all metal
ramkamxNETio: got a metal one, i'm not so sure the thermistor is accurate though
NETioUnless you go over like 265C you should be fine. 265 is probably fine unless you let it cook off in the hotend, but even then the amount being burned is tiny so again, likely not a problem
Artesianhoneywell axials are good to at least 250
ramkamxmaybe it was a bit higher than 235. manage to print a timing belt and the pullies, worked quite well
NETioMy semitec is allegedly good to 300C
Artesianwhich amazes me
ramkamxbut nowhere near the 80 MPa's of nylon
Artesiansemitecs break on me all the time
Artesiansuch thin little wires
NETioramkamx: 618 will extrude at rather low temps, but doesn't get good layer bonding until 240+
Artesian618 will bond well at 235
NETioI printed 618 at 240-245 and I print trimmer line at 250
Artesianbut you're right, not much lower
Artesianthats how I destroyed my jhead :(
NETioramkamx: Run it slower. You can get by with lower temps if you run slower
Artesian235 was enough to weaken the heatsink
Artesianah yeah?
ArtesianI wasn't going faster than 60mms
ramkamxNETio: will try again then. i'm having issues with retraction. the filament is too soft, the extruder grinds the filament after a while
Computer_BarfNetio: im not talking about cyanide , but in general how does nylon smell
ArtesianI'd like to print nylons at 100
NETioComputer_Barf: It doesn't really
Artesianmy 618 and 645 have zero odor
Artesianeven right up a few inches from the printer
Artesianless than PLA, much much less than ABS
Artesianim done with ABS until I build a vent system
Computer_BarfNetio: comparable to PLA? I get alot of migranes and ABS can bother me. I only use abs with a hood.
NETioComputer_Barf: ABS has a melted plastic kind of scent, PLA has either no scent or a sickeningly sweet scent like anti-freeze, Nylon has no scent when I printed it, even trimmer line. Got a funky smell at first, discovered it was the glue stick on my heated bed, not the nylon
ArtesianGarolite my friend
A2_terramir: Nylon6 min decomposition temp is 583C, pg1-124,
Artesianno heat or adhesives needed with a good piece of garolite
NETiorunning the bed at 70C (only get ~65 on top of the thick phenolic) with scotch permanent gluestick is fine now. I was running it excessively hot with a different gluestick, I forget which one. Elmer's white all-purpose and Scotch Permanent both work great for me
ramkamxComputer_Barf: not so much smell / hard to notice. it does give you the same little high than ABS, maybe a bit more
NETioArtesian: The glue stick is to decrease adhesion
Artesiancomo say what?
ArtesianI use oils for that
Artesianyou really need to decrease adhesion?
NETioArtesian: Yes. Otherwise it's near impossible to get them off the bed. Running at lower temps (I've heard ~45c is good since that's near glass transition) would probably decrease bonding, but I wanted to heat the upper layers a bit too
terramirNetio: z-wobble on a prusa2 what is that?
Artesianmakes sense. I just give the Z start height lots of clearance
Artesianthe first layer can be a tad messy, but I sand that anyways
Artesianit still sticks like glue even dropping the filament a ways onto the sheet. and peels off easy with my palette knives
NETioNow that I have maintenance free surface for ABS and PLA I'm probably going to try either decreasing temp on the nylon's bed or increase z-offset so I can get rid of the gluestick
Artesianbut you're right it does super-adhere if you use a normal (small) z height
A2_terramir: *CORRECTION* Nylon6 min decomposition temp is 583K
kthx OUCH!
terramirNetio: you see any z-wobble this was printed with a prusa2
kthx => => 0 comments, 7 IRC mentions
NETioterramir: Prusa i2 or i3?
terramirand no heated chamber not a single crack in the actually piece no warping
NETiothat almost looks too tall to be done on an i2, lol
NETiolooks thicker than that
terramirwell I got stubby fingers
NETiolol, I was looking at the fan too
terramiryeah fan adds height
NETioterramir: I don't fault the i2 design. Just MY i2 was bad. I could've corrected it with leadscrews or isolating the z-axis
NETioBut why bother for 3.8 inches of build height
terramirno z-wobble just use tubes and zip ties for couples
NETioNow I have 14
terramir14 hmmm does your thing have a heated chamber?
NETioI had rigid CNC'd couplers that MakerGear shipped with them. They were also constrained at the bottom in bearings. Their idea was to over-constrain the rods
Flippanyone have any tips on reducing blobbing on bowden restarts?
NETioterramir: It had one, took it off while I work on the new one that should be better
terramirvinyl or other tubing from hardware store
terramirpresto no z-wobble what so ever
NETioterramir: I've printed some pretty tall parts, no problems. Had problems sticking prints on hairspray though. Brim fixed it but now PEI is sticking ABS almost too good. It pops off cold but I just tried to remove my last set of printed parts hot and they wouldn't budge. Got a putty knife under one and it still didn't want to let go. Let it cool a bit more and it came right off
terramirif I could have a heated chamber (well an enclosure that the bed gets as a by product to 60C
kthxpei is and is also and is also
iamalionim having a really weird issue with a print, check this out:
iamalionas you can see it jumps on every round part
iamalionlike a travel move
iamalionbut here is screenshots of the resulting gcode
terramiryeah wtf is right what you slice that with
iamalionand for those that want to look at the gcode file:
cceciliamalion: jerk/accel related I guess...or max speeds possibly
iamalionI used scli3r in vase mode
iamalionccecil no, it is doing a travel move like thing
iamalionccecil ive gotten all the bugs worked out
terramirseems like it wants to add some air print
terramirjust to be different
cceciliamalion: there are no travels in vase looks to be that it is speeding up and slowing down
terramiris this the experimental slic3r
terramirmight be a bug reslic3 with 0.98
iamalionccecil I set all speeds to 40mms
iamalionterramir slic3r 1.0.1
ccecilyeah...looks like the cooling tab's slowdown is messing with it
iamalionooh that would make sense
terramir1.0.1 I'm using it right now can't even use concentric had to switch to hilbi to make sure top and bottom is closed it should not have a 1 number 0.72b was superior
ccecileither slowdown or max speeds
iamalionthe only speed related cooling setting is min speed
iamalionwhich is set at 15mms
terramirNETio: your saying this PEi stuff is superior to window tint with abs juice?
cceciliamalion: IIRC the only time I had issues like that it was related to max speeds in firmware....or accel/jerk
NETioNever used window tint. I've heard it's about like Kapton. Kapton stuck great for me, but tears easily and is a PITA to apply. ABS Juice is too much work IMO, I've never used it. PEI sticks as good, if not better, than Kapton and is usable endlessly. People have thousands of prints on a single sheet on the SeeMeCNC forums with a mix of ABS/PLA and it's still working great
iamalionoh well fuck it, ill print it as normal with 0 infill
iamalioni dont need vase mode
iamalionNETio is that with or without a heated bed
NETioIf you have something working for you then I say stick with it unless you want to move away from ABS Juice
NETioiamalion: With heated bed. ABS doesn't stick to it without heat, don't ask how I figured this out :P
iamalionyes it does
NETioACTION may have been configuring KISSlicer and didn't realize he had to put bed heatup code in the start g-code
iamalionprinting on bare glass is so much easier than dicking around with additives
NETioiamalion: I'm saying ABS doesn't stick to cold PEI
ramkamxgn everyone
NETioiamalion: And PEI is a sheet of material like glass or garolite. Endlessly reusable like glass. That's why I transitioned to it and away from hairspray on glass. Bare glass with ABS never worked well for me.
iamalionACTION shrugs
iamalionI have never had a problem with bare glass
ramkamxhairspray works like a charm, and holds well for about 15-20 prints
ramkamxi put a thick layer of it (spraying a lot) first, then level up from time to time
GrumpyOldMan0001what this new surface on kickstater, anyone have any real facts vs advertising
NETioiamalion: You and ccecil seem to be the only people in the world capable of printing ABS onto bare glass without a problem
NETioGrumpyOldMan0001: Link?
ccecilNETio: pretty much every printer I have sold prints on bare glass
iamalionas long as the glass is heated you can print on it
NETioGecko has made build surfaces in the past I thought
NETiobut this thing with a magnetic base... if they made it in rostock size with a round bed :D
NETioBut I'm happy with PEI. Maybe what that is, but probably not. PEI is Ultem and normally only comes in a single color. It's stupid expensive in thicker sheets too. Like $100 for a 12x12 sheet that's 1/4" thick
NETioI never got the level of adhesion I needed with ABS on bare glass
NETioMaybe a matter of the filament used
kthxbowden is a type of extruder that the drive mechanism is mounted in a fixed position, and 'feeds' the filament to the hotend by using tubing, such as PTFE. Does have known issues, read
Flippugh. have blobs at the start of my seams with my bowden :(
NETiokthx: bowden has also been successfully used on many printers. The known issues can be corrected with proper tuning
Flippand I'm retracting at 60mm/s :/
NETiokthx: bowden is also has been successfully used on many printers. The known issues can be corrected with proper tuning
kthxNETio: Okay.
kthxbowden is a type of extruder that the drive mechanism is mounted in a fixed position, and 'feeds' the filament to the hotend by using tubing, such as PTFE. Does have known issues, read and is also has been successfully used on many printers. The known issues can be corrected with proper tuning
NETioFlipp: how far?
NETioFlipp: I run 5mm retract @ 100mm/s
FlippNETio: 3.5mm
NETioFlipp: 1.75mm or 3mm?
FlippNETio: 1.75mm
NETioFlipp: Probably needs more distance
FlippI'm using a 5.14:1 phidgets geared stepper, which means my retract speed is limited :/
Flippeven with full stepping the drivers
FlippNetio: more? that means the duration it's in one spot would be (a tiny bit) longer
NETioI run a direct drive without issue
Flipphow many amps are you running?
Flippand which DD extruder are you using?
NETioI don't run wipe either. I run wipe with Nylon and I'm running it now with KISSlicer
NETioFlipp: EZStruder. Think airtripper but injection molded. Same hobbed gear. ~1.2amps on a Kysan 5.5kg/cm stepper
NETionot really like an airtripper. It has a lever to take tension off the idler so more like makerbot. IDK. It's unique
kthxEZStruder is and is also and is also
NETioBut functionally it's the same as an airtripper. Airtripper actually gives a little more freedom to increase pressure against the drive gear
NETioFlipp: I also run 3mm of z-lift @ 100mm/s
NETioThat can't really be done on a normal cartesian printer
FlippDelta, I'm assuming? :0
NETiobut I don't get blobs even when I run like 0.2mm z-lift
Flippya, I run 200 mm/s travel, which gets rid of blobs quite a bit
NETioI just did that since at one point I had curling overhangs and I didn't want the nozzle hitting the curled overhang on a travel move while it's speeding along at 250mm/s
FlippI'm trying to design something like an airtripper for direct extrusion, but I'm having trouble getting enough force through the tube :/
NETioI run conservative accels. 1200mm/s^2
FlippNETio: yup, good thinking. pla I'm assuming?
NETioFlipp: What stepper? Direct drive only really works with high torque steppers. Cheap chinese steppers probably won't work well
FlippNETio: 78oz/in, the beefy nema17s
NETioFlipp: I run almost exclusively ABS through an E3D
Flippmy original problem was I was using a brainwave. worked great for bowden, but it only can pump 0.8A. so I switched to pololus
NETioRan PLA fine through the stock seemecnc hotend. That hotend had a longer meltzone. I ran 6-7mm retraction on it
FlippCurling with ABS? Huh, I thought that was just a PLA problem
NETioFlipp: I was running PLA at the time
Flippah, ok :)
NETioTold my 3dHubs client I wanted to change it to ABS in same color, he didn't care. PLA was too brittle for the ultra-thin part at the top anyway
Flippnice. what'd you use to slice? for the support?
A2_NETio: that's really good, got a pic of your rig that produced it?
A2_what material?
NETioFlipp: Also have this printed in ABS
NETioWhite ABS on the little Reddit Snoo that some lucky guy got 3d printed for free on a 3d hubs promotion
NETioBlack ABS on the other print. It's a mini quadcopter arm for a prototype frame. Frame body is machined G10, arms will *hopefully* be 3d printed
NETioAll printed on a Rostock Max. Quad arm (black part) was done in Slic3r 1.1.4 (or maybe 1.1.3) and the Snoo had to be done with KISSlicer, Slic3r left too large a gap between support material and the ball on top
A2_your Rostock is tuned nicely
Flippmy prize print:
NETioA2_: These are older pictures of my Rostock Max. Both those prints were done without the heated chamber on it. I'm rebuilding the chamber from printed brackets and rigid insulation. The old one was just flexible insulation taped to it
Flippno cleanup, no support
Flippback on my old MendelMax 1.5+... I can't seem to slice that model correctly since then :/
A2_love it, looks like a satellite
NETiothose bridges.....
Flipphaha, nice NETio... love the heated build chamber :)
FlippI know, right? that was good 'ol greg's wade's, 3MM filament on a MM1.5+.
NETioyeah, heated chambers aren't conducive to bridging though. It does let you run a fan with ABS for better overhangs though.
NETioI've never tuned for bridging on my RMax
Flippthe problem is most slicing programs don't slice the bridges correctly anymore :(
A2_Netio: you could put some grow lights in that thing. lol
A2_Flipp: nice print!
NETioA2_: New enclosure will be rigid polystyrene panels with the same radiant barrier insulation (from the old enclosure) on the inside and the outside hopefully spray painted black
NETiospray paint may melt the polystyrene, IDK
Flippis there any new hotness in slicing? I know of slic3r, kisslicer and cura. kisslicer seems to be the most reliable
NETioA2_: I quickly ditched the blue lights. It didn't look that vibrant blue in person, but it made seeing the print hard. It's just what I had leftover from a quadcopter build
NETioFlipp: I have used almost exclusively slic3r since slic3r 0.2. But dealing with that small Reddit Snoo print (the white thing with a ball on its head) I had to use KISS to get proper support. And I must say I like it. I'm running a few more prints with it and I think I'll end up buying pro
A2_Halogen lights are very good for viewing colors for their true color.
FlippJonathan (the guy that wrote KISSlicer) is a super nice guy. Worked with him back in the late '90s early 2000s
Flippand you're absolutely right: no other slicing program I've found can touch KISSlicer's support quality
NETioI was almost ready to say that print couldn't be done at that scale without dissolvable support or some magic, at least not to the high resolution standard for 3d hubs
NETioBut KISSlicer provided the required magic, and I used the old version from 2013. Have the new beta now :D
Flippyup yup!
NETiosupport was dense and made the ball perfect, but it literally pulled right off. No chopping with a knife, prying with a screwdriver. Just grabbed it with small pliers, gave it a little squeeze to break it free along with a little twist and it popped right off
Flippif only it provided settings for velocity-based priming (see llluis's pull request to slic3r) I'd happily use it and never look back
NETiolink to priming thing?
NETioI like how I can pick where I want the seam, it's awesome
NETioI like the stratasys style seam hiding option
Flippspecifically the feb 14 post by llluis
NETioalthough slic3r seams look almost the same now, but slic3r has came a long way with seams here lately
FlippNETio: you seem to be pretty knowledgeable on bowden stuff. any tips on changing speeds and not having prints look like this:
Artesianits a tanning salon
Artesianwith the blue lights
NETioI run 0.1mm extra length on restart, or I did for a while. I honestly can't tell much difference. I run perimeters from inside -> outside so the start of extrusion is hidden anyway, although I have printed single-walled cylinders that look fine. That looks like underextrusion I think
FlippNETio: that's the thing... it only looks like that if it's a speed change
Flippaccording to his research, it seems like it's a product of the pressure not being high enough during the speed change
Flipplike if perimeters are at 30mm/s and infill is at 100mm/s
Flippbowdens have an inherent pressure required to extrude at a given speed (due to tube/filament sizes, compression, etc)
terramir_NETio, that surface what thickness you got and at what temp do you have a solid bond with abs/ pla
Flippso if the 30mm/s is at pressure X, the pressure required to print at 100mm/s is 1.2*X
NETioThat looks like a bandaid to me
NETiosoftware fix for a hardware problem
kthxPei is and is also and is also
NETioFlipp: I have had underextrusion before, mainly on top infill. I corrected it on the seemecnc hotend with higher temps, and I run probably higher temps than a lot run for ABS. I run ABS at 235-240C depending on speed
NETioand layer height
NETioFlipp: That's another thing you can try. higher layers = more plastic required
terramir_NETio? dang 111 bucks for 12x24 at 1/8 thickened that stuff is expensive
NETioterramir_: I know
NETioterramir_: That's why I bought 0.030" thick and laminated it to borosilicate glass :D
terramir_and 12x24 is no good
NETioterramir_: 3M 468MP adhesive
terramir_how much is that :(
NETioterramir_: Didn't take the whole roll, the 3/4" wide in 5yds length would probably work fine
NETioterramir_: They also have 1" wide. The wider the tape the more potential for air bubbles. But I have a ton of tiny bubbles and it doesn't seem to affect it
terramir_yeah but I got like three glass surfaces
NETioterramir_: Guys on seemecnc forums put like 100-200lbs of weight on their beds for a day or two to push out air.
terramir_what am I supposed to do sit on it lol
terramir_I dun have anything weighing 100lbs much less 200
terramir_except my gf she's the slightly over 100 I'm 250 though
NETioterramir_: One guy said he used 100lbs of books and other stuff, another used 200lbs of steel weights
terramir_two printers three glass surfaces
NETioI just threw it on there and started printing
terramir_and more printers to come
NETioand it's working fine. Just printed out to ~240mm diameter on my bed and it's still a consistent first layer. So I'm not worried about it. I have enough tape for a re-do if I have to sometime in the future
terramir_got the parts for at least two more printers flying areund here
NETioI paid $30 for borosilicate glass, $30 for phenolic sheet, and $30 for PEI+tape. So $30 seems to be the running price for build surfaces for me
terramir_240mm how big is your heated bed/ glass
terramir_phenolic sheet?
terramir_printed on acrylic a few times sticks like all heck
NETio300mm diameter
NETio280mm printable diameter
FlippJohann said he got a good glass plate from a round clock he bought at target for like $8 :)
Flippnot boro obviously
NETiosome people have pushed a bit outside the 280mm spec a bit I think
Flippbut definitely cheap
NETioI shattered like 6 12x12 mirrors
NETioBut they only cost $9 for a 6-pack
NETioWas heating the center to 100C but the corners hung off the print bed so were room temp
Flippon an unrelated note: good delta calibration + FSR autolevel = no more first layer headaches for this guy :D
NETioNot a good combination for standard glass. I ran plain glass on my prusa i2 forever. Bought two sheets for a few dollars and they served it well for the life of the printer
kthxFSR is
NETioterramir_: I use mil-spec XX-grade phenolic to print Nylon. 0.375" thick
NETioDidn't even realize it was mil-spec until after I bought it :P Don't think the spec says anything about flatness/thickness tolerances anyway, so of no use for printing. But it's a fun term to throw around
TTNseen blockh34d
kthxblockh34d was last seen in #reprap 2 hours 42 min ago saying '_j_diez_: _i_ _don_'_t_, _still_ _no_ _problem_... _i_ _max_ _out_ _gpu_ _on_ _erroneous_ _opengl_ _dev_ _apps_ _and_ _stuff_ _like_ _that_ _all_ _the_ _time_ _too_, _no_ _problem_'.
terramirseen kliment
kthxKliment was last seen in #reprap 2 days 16 hours ago saying '_Patte_: _Which_ _enables_ _you_ _to_ _use_ _a_ _lot_ _of_ _materials_'.
terramirseen josef*
kthxJosefPrusha was last seen in #reprap 2 months 1 week ago saying '_One_ _sec_, _my_ _Hispanic_ _brother_ _wants_ _to_ _talk_'.
kthxjosefprusa was last seen in #reprap 2 months 2 weeks ago saying '_no_'.
kthxjosefprusaA was last seen in #reprap 3 months 5 days ago saying '_A_ndersonTa_: $_130_, _thats_ _steep_'.
terramirSeen terramir
kthxterramir was last seen in #reprap 0 sec ago saying '_Seen_ _t_erramir_'.
NETioseen the new prusa i4 yet?
kthxi4 is in the works for 2014
kthxi7 is Intel's latest and greatest
kthxi6 is I said we don't talk about events that occur after the great revolution.
NETioSo the i5 will be the one to buy :P
NETiolol. I heard the i4 is a corexy or h-bot. I forget which
NETioor maybe josef hadn't decided
Incognito675nah, his twitter had some info...
bastard_bavariaguten morgen!
Incognito675himm, thats not good... my usb connector just fell off the board...
terramir700 bucks sheet metal easy to manufacturer en mass but unfortunetly not self built
crunchwhat board
terramirwhat board yeah
crunchazteg x5?
Incognito675nah a external harddrive case... but its weirds its like it was reflowed off? at room temp
TTNseen blockh34d
kthxblockh34d was last seen in #reprap 3 hours 1 min ago saying '_j_diez_: _i_ _don_'_t_, _still_ _no_ _problem_... _i_ _max_ _out_ _gpu_ _on_ _erroneous_ _opengl_ _dev_ _apps_ _and_ _stuff_ _like_ _that_ _all_ _the_ _time_ _too_, _no_ _problem_'.
crunchi feel like eating a nice spicy sausage
crunchand the market is closed
ptlI just finished wiring my RUMBA to my kossel mini
ptlI have plugged the RUMBA into a 24V power supply and the main pwr pins are powered, but it doesn't turn on
ptlno leds on
ptlI plugged it into my computer's USB also
ptlno deal.
iamalion2asdf testing something please ignore lolz
iamalionseen iamalion2
kthxiamalion2 was last seen in #reprap 3 sec ago saying '_asdf_ _testing_ _something_ _please_ _ignore_ _lolz_'.
iamalionwas kthx updated? I've never seen mine put _ on every word
ptlkthx: kossel?
kthxkossel is and is also the openbeam version of Rostock and is also pics at and is also
ptlkthx: rumba?
kthxrumba is and is also,173145 and is also and is also
ptlno help?
TTNseen blockh34d
kthxblockh34d was last seen in #reprap 3 hours 10 min ago saying '_j_diez_: _i_ _don_'_t_, _still_ _no_ _problem_... _i_ _max_ _out_ _gpu_ _on_ _erroneous_ _opengl_ _dev_ _apps_ _and_ _stuff_ _like_ _that_ _all_ _the_ _time_ _too_, _no_ _problem_'.
ptlmy rumba simply doesn't turn on
crunchread the bottom of the page
UnderSampledwithout starting a war, does anyone here have an opinion between the TAPR OHL vs CERN OHL?
ptlthe troubleshooting part? I've tried it, but I can't power it even standalone, much less USB
ptlunable to enumerate USB device
navyvethello all
navyvetanyone use the megatronics?
terramirUnderSampled wtf is either explain pl0x
terramirtapr ohl?
terramircern ohl?
UnderSampledopen hardware liscenses
terramirkthx does not know and niether do I
terramirI'd have to read em send me links pl0x
UnderSampledtapr OHL:
UnderSampledcern ohl:
TTNseen blockh34d
kthxblockh34d was last seen in #reprap 3 hours 54 min ago saying '_j_diez_: _i_ _don_'_t_, _still_ _no_ _problem_... _i_ _max_ _out_ _gpu_ _on_ _erroneous_ _opengl_ _dev_ _apps_ _and_ _stuff_ _like_ _that_ _all_ _the_ _time_ _too_, _no_ _problem_'.
flogiamalion: bad slicing tool ? :)
Incognito675photon in a mirrored box got bored with going straight
terramircern bad exe not supported on mac lol
UnderSampledwhere does cern say exe?
terramirclick on link its a self extracting exe i can''''''t use
UnderSampledit should have been a pdf
terramireither or will do but your stuck with whatevert license your predecessors used anyways
UnderSampledterramir: probably, but if I'm making my own stuff, I want a good choise
jglaucheI dual licensed code for parts gplv3 + tapr recently
TTNseen blockh34d
kthxblockh34d was last seen in #reprap 4 hours 30 min ago saying '_j_diez_: _i_ _don_'_t_, _still_ _no_ _problem_... _i_ _max_ _out_ _gpu_ _on_ _erroneous_ _opengl_ _dev_ _apps_ _and_ _stuff_ _like_ _that_ _all_ _the_ _time_ _too_, _no_ _problem_'.
mastag25why do you keep doing that
mastag25in the last 12 hours i have seen you do that 7 times
mastag25he quit
Computer_Barftryna find block34d yo
jglauchekthx: tell TTN you can /query the bot too!
UnderSampledI bet this is even more annoying :D
kthxjglauche: I'll pass that on when TTN is around.
UnderSampledseen TTN
kthxTTN was last seen in #reprap 4 min 27 sec ago saying '_seen_ _blockh34d_'.
UnderSampledoh, good it screens it :)
iamaliondamn bad part of octoprint
iamalionpart started hittig because i ran out of z
iamalionbut i had octoprint's page closed
iamalionso i panickly typed the ip in
iamalionand wasnt logged in
iamalionthen screwed up my login 3 times as it made a mess
iamalionthen accidentally clicked home after cancelling instead of moving the y
iamalionso i tried to home hte exruder into the fram
Belxjanderwell I have the challenge of needing to setup a "standalone" printer unit
BelxjanderI already have a Raspi...but need to build a machine for someone else
Belxjanderor at least look into doing so
Computer_Barfiamalion, what kind of printer?
Belxjanderwhat is recommended for running an "Octoprint" web server printer setup?
iamalionalso why teh fuck cant slic3r have a message when slicing "hey this print wont fit due to your z height"
iamalionlike shit that would be so simple to add
BelxjanderRaspi or BeagleBone Black?
iamalionComputer_Barf ccecil mmpro
Belxjanderiamalion: because there is no concept of the spatial limits without calibrating them first?
terramirthe tapr as far as I read says that any modifications must continue to be licenced by thay agreement
cceciliamalion: I always check in should get the parts to convert yours to the new one :)
Belxjanderiamalion: and that is left up to the user to work around afaik
Computer_Barfdid you print a raspberry pi case for mounting it to your printer?
iamalionbut you set your bed x and y in slic3r
iamalionit would be as simple as adding a z height box for the warning
iamalionwe all forget sometimes
iamalionnormally i check
iamalionjust forgo
BelxjanderComputer_Barf: do you mean me?
iamaliongood thing i was still up
terramirrasberry pi that's the equivalent of a pentium 2 so very slow
Computer_Barfi was asking iamalion, but anyone who might have mounted a raspberry pi on extrusion
iamalionwhats the problem with the raspi?
mastag25should have my printer cam set up tomororw
iamalionI use one on my printer to run octoprint
iamalionand 3 at work for our printers
BelxjanderComputer_Barf: well I need to sort out mounting a Raspi...along with the rest of building an i3 kit
terramirwell I gtg --------------> sleep
iamalionplus a few other pi's for various other things
iamalioni like raspberry pis
BelxjanderACTION is still trying to work out how in hell to pay for a kit to build an i3 for himself let alone deal with anyone else locally wanting one as well
Computer_Barfiamalion: i was expressing an interest in if you had printed a case for mounting your raspberry pi to extrusions
Belxjanderiamalion: I need to setup a Raspi Octoprint server...with a real printer attached as well by the other USB port
Incognito675I also like r-pi's but agree they are to slow for many things... slicing for one!
iamalionoh no, mine is pinned to the side of the printer between it and the table lol
iamalionthe ones at work have cases
Computer_BarfI have a raspberry pi sitting around and would like to use octoprint. I have a mendelmax, but was wondering if anyone could recommend a case
mastag25for the rpi?
Computer_Barfmmpro is a mendelmax?
BelxjanderComputer_Barf: well I bought myself a 2pi stacking case that is extensible
iamalionmy printer
Computer_Barfyeah a case for the raspberry pi
iamalionpie is pinned under the left z smoothrod
mastag25whats that iamalion
Belxjanderso If I need to I can plug together however many RPis and daisy them as a cluster setup
mastag25what printer
mastag25that looks very nice
iamaliona ccecil mmpro
cceciliamalion: technically a TL mmpro
iamalionshhhhh we dont talk about them was their design
Belxjanderwhat are the current recommendable parts for Electronics, Hot-end, Motors and frame model?
ccecilmodded from the MM 1.5+
iamalionACTION shrugs
Belxjanderis it RAMPS/Sanguinololu, jHead, RATTM and i3 or some other combination?
crunchccecil: thats a pbc y rail?
ccecilcrunch: yeah
crunchhow is the slack in it
ccecily and x
ccecilnot bad on mine...but there are probably better out there
Computer_BarfI have a mendelmax, but I'm getting some z wobble because my z rods don't like to stay in the the bearings in the vertices
London3DGood morning.
mastag25have you asked them in their channel barf
Computer_Barfnot yet
TTNseen blockh34d
kthxblockh34d was last seen in #reprap 4 hours 52 min ago saying '_j_diez_: _i_ _don_'_t_, _still_ _no_ _problem_... _i_ _max_ _out_ _gpu_ _on_ _erroneous_ _opengl_ _dev_ _apps_ _and_ _stuff_ _like_ _that_ _all_ _the_ _time_ _too_, _no_ _problem_'.
kthxTTN: 18 min 25 sec ago <jglauche> tell TTN you can /query the bot too!
TTNsorry for the spam guys.
TTNI'll use that command from now on
Computer_Barflol just wondering if you were automated
mastag25you keep joining and doing the same command
mastag25it's 8 times now
TTNoh right. yea were doing a project and am bouncing to talk to him :p
TTNhaha I'll leave it for today.
TuimTTN: you can leave a message
Tuimwith the tell command
TuimSomething like 'tell blockhead34d something'
mastag25is someone around that can test my camera
dirtycoldhi. is there a way to use cura-engine to infill a set of intersected polygons?
Tuimmastag25: Test it how?
kthxreprapdiscount is a source of low cost RAMPS 1.4, Pololus and Arduinos. IRC-Contact: BubbleRep, Shop:, Forum: BEWARE: their RAMPS comes w/ D1 pre-populated, do NOT use more than 12v w/o removing this diode! SDRAMPS pins are also male instead of female.
TuimBubbleRep: Do you have a EU distributor?
mastag25thanks anyway Tuim Computer_Barf helped me
mastag25nite nite
t00tiedammit, what's that weird delta called?
kthxkthx is a noob and a bot. if I had hands i would be a God. Documentation at or ask kthx for help.
kthxsimpson is a family of unusual deltabots built by Nicholas Seward, see gus simpson or lisa simpson for more | original forum thread:,206458 | group thread:!topic/deltabot/K3vpkeZtg2c
kthx Rostock: blog - thingiverse - source - video and is also Johann's openbeam version
t00tiesimpson it was, the maker is Seward, ty Smidge204
GeoffSAnyone built a Wolfstock and care to share some construction details? Starting printing bits for it today but not sure on the option for GT2 belt.
crunchyou can message wolfmanjm
crunchhe made it
kthxabs is smelly when molten, maybe you want to vent it; is also and and its smelly melting-byproduct is and is also don't believe all the FUD, read the MSDS:
NinjinxCan anyone confirm that the Traxxas rod ends used on a kossel mini are the Traxxas 5347 large revo rod ends? has the specs
NinjinxYup, 5347 - thanks!
crunchwhere the fuck is everyone
MattyMattstill mooching around on that mudball planet
MattyMattshore leave is cancelled. everybody get in their starships, it's time to move on
crunchput the pipe down....
Incognito675well its mid winter here, and most are hibernating, or trying to!
MattyMattdon't get comfortable. there isn't enough fresh water on this mudball for us to stay here
crunch4am i should think about bed
MattyMattACTION prepares a couple of stasis pods for the sleepyheads
pwillard7:04 AM Nobody is awake yet
Incognito675MattyMatt: yes please! set mine to wake up in a decade, thanks
crunchACTION makes a bowel movement inside the pod
MattyMatta decade? don't you want to wait for flying cars?
pwillardSo I've fixed 2 broken parts on my wifes wooden spinning wheel (You know, the thing that spins raw wool into yarn) and she has now accepted that 3D printers are useful. Though she still calls my printer "the other woman" and has named her Giada.
Incognito675MattyMatt: a decade will do, have a look around, go back in for annother decade
jglauchepwillard: be more creative!
jglaucheACTION printing silicone forms for body melts
MattyMattIncognito675, but the electricity bill will need paying, better to stay in until money is obsolete
MattyMattand cars fly
Incognito675MattyMatt: compound interest will cover that
pwillardOh, good use for NinjaFlex (making molds) ?
jglauchepwillard: if I could print flexible material correctly, yes
jglauchepwillard: this gets printed in PLA, then I pour in silicone
pwillardwhat does it require?
pwillardAh... neat. I have not tried making molds yet
nikreare there scad files of prusa i3 rework? or can i also use stl to modify a diameter of a part?
jglauchebut yes, I should make an extruder with a drive gear that can feed TPE
pwillardSo hobbed bolt is no good for that then... \
jglauchecould be
jglauchebut I use gears that bite brutally into the filament
jglaucheworks wonderful for anything hard
MattyMatthas anyone tried driving filament with rubber rollers?
Smidge204__No reason it wouldn't work if you pinched hard enough. I think getting suitable rubber wheels has been the main hurdle
Smidge204__(ie nobody could be assed to try as of yet)
MattyMattI've seen lots of suitable ones in old paper printers
Incognito675yip, every few years someone tries it.. you get variable extrusion due to variable compressions and filimant size
MattyMattI wouldn't be inclined to try it, having grown up with cassette tape chewing. I was just curious
Incognito675I had forgotten about tapes doing that... it been so long since ive even see a cassette
Smidge204__Seems only worth the trouble for really soft filaments, but that introduces other problems
MattyMattthe pinchwheel on casettes is what makes me want to get rid of the idler, and have 2 drivewheels
Smidge204__Casettes only have one drivewheel AFAIK
MattyMattany drop of oil or moisture and it slipped
Smidge204__Having a double-driven extruder is nontrivial
MattyMattyep, best plan I have is a geartrain of 4 small gears, and springs and whatnots
Smidge204__Somewhere I had a Sketchup model if a scheme
starnoMattyMatt: I use dual drivegears
MattyMattor if each wheel was on a unijoint driveshaft, from a simple fixed pair of gears at the motor
Smidge204__Oh, two schemes
MattyMatt3rd scheme (used by ezra) 2 motors
MattyMattstarno, how does yours work?
Smidge204__That looks like a good grip!
MattyMattarr, it works well :) but HOW?
starnoI made custom gears with two tooth profiles, one set meshes and the other pinches
MattyMattah, I thought of that, but that'd mean the meshing can't be ideal at all distances
nikrei need help. i see that prusa i3 vanilla has scad files but the i3 rework doesnt have the parametric files. i want to build the i3 rework but use 12mm smooth rods instead of m8 smooth rods (to utilize what i already have) . how can i do this?
MattyMattnikre probably mix and match
starnoMattyMatt: what do you mean?
MattyMatttake the original i3 scad, generate your desired config, then hack in the mods from the rework
Smidge204__MattyMatt: With the correct tooth profile you'll get good contact at varying centers
MattyMattwithout backlash?
Smidge204__Oh, no, you'll always have backlach :)
MrVoltzIts ok that M105 says 100 °C, but when I measure the hotend manually, iz
MrVoltzt says like 55°C
Smidge204__But I imagine that's not too bad since the filament itself would create an anti-backlash jamming effect
TuimMrVoltz: Did you do pid tuning?
TuimI dont know how much that can matter
kthxpid is Proportional, Integral, Derivative. A control algorithm used for temp control in some repraps. -- A nice Arduino tutorial at -- Marlin/Sprinter can auto tune your PID parameters: First run M303, your bot will heat up to 150, let it cycle several times, this will print out increasingly accurate pid values. Use M301 Px Ix Dx for new values and M500 to store
Bo_DKquick Q: how long can the wires on a full graph display for ramps be ?
Bo_DKthe cables that came with the display is only about 20cm long
MattyMattI guess it's not a problem if the 2nd drive is actually loose in the mesh, as long as the filament is driving OK, but as soon as the filament starts to slip, then the mesh will catch it
Bo_DKand i have a small spool of flat ribbon
starnoMattyMatt: I run direct drive and if I hold the filament the motor skips, by design :D
starnohavent noticed any problems with backlash, but Im not sure how to measure it really
MattyMattBo_DK 6ft is the traditional limit for TTL signals
MrVoltzPid tunning has nothing to do with it, I set M104 to 100
Smidge204__MrVoltz: How are you manually measuring the temp?
MrVoltzVernier surface temperature meter
Bo_DKMattyMatt: thanks.... that is 1.8 meters... more than enough... just wanted to extend them as much so i can have the display in a case on the table
Smidge204__So.. non-contact
MrVoltzI put it on the aluminium block
Smidge204__But the temperature reading is based on infrared emissions and not physical contact, right?
MrVoltzNo, it is black thermistor or somrthing like that
Smidge204__I see. That's good.
Smidge204__Try setting it to different temperatures, and comparing actual vs. reported temps at multiple points
Riverghosthey all
Smidge204__If you plot those temps, you shold get two fairly straight lines
Smidge204__I they aren't parallel then you probably have the wrong thermistor selected
MrVoltzOk, how many temps?
Riverghostshould i try and finish my calibration and fine tuning of my printer before i stick the standalone cp+sd card reader on it, or does it not really matter? any ideas peeples?
Smidge204__The joke is, if you requier a striaght-line fit, only collect two datapoints :)
Smidge204__But three or four points should be good enough to see what's going on
starnoMattyMatt: when I noticed the geared extruders are torquey enough to lift the x-axis of a machine, , I wanted to get the torque just right that the extruder skips if there is an issue
starnothe ultimate goal of 100% unattended printing
pwillardYou can make 1 data point = Good data or Bad data, no one will know.
MrVoltzHi, my connection dropped
MrVoltzSo two are ok, or more?
Smidge204__But three or four points should be good enough to see what's going on
Riverghostanyone got any idea bout tuning before making standalone, or wether its counterproductive (as youd have to retune after fitting perhaps?)
Bo_DKRiverghost: hmmmm i would go as close to standalone i could before tuning (pid)
Bo_DKie calibrate etc etc and get a super good print with pc connected... then pid tune and then standalone
Bo_DKjust to be safe
Riverghostpid tune?
kthxpid is Proportional, Integral, Derivative. A control algorithm used for temp control in some repraps. -- A nice Arduino tutorial at -- Marlin/Sprinter can auto tune your PID parameters: First run M303, your bot will heat up to 150, let it cycle several times, this will print out increasingly accurate pid values. Use M301 Px Ix Dx for new values and M500 to store
Bo_DKits an automatic procedure that tunes the pid numbers
Bo_DKso it does not overshoot temp as much and not under either
Riverghostgot some pretty good prints now and great bed adhesion, im just trying to improve my bridging
Riverghostwhich atm, sucks lool
starnoRiverghost: temperature and speed is key
Riverghostim also not 100% ive got the hotend nozzle size correctly calibrated, lost my damn recipt and the things built in good now, and wrapped in kapton
Riverghostwaiting for a mail back from the seller, hopefully he has details
starnoextrude mid air and measure the diameter
starnoits going to be around 10% less than what you measure
kthxhangout is a persistent audio and video chat room, open 24/7. - Requires a google login. (Blame Canada)
Riverghostok ill try and check, seems im getting about .5
spretI am having trouble with larger prints cracking (the plastic must be shrinking as it cools?). I'm printing in ABS and was hoping that it would be more crack resistant (isn't it less brittle?).
nikre is it possible to make the smooth rod diameter as 12mm on the prusa i3 boxed frame? the smooth rod diameter is not parametric on the scad configuration file. what would be an easy way to do this?
malcom2073spret: cracking, or layer seperation?
spretAny solution ideas?
spretyes, layer separation!!
malcom2073spret: i added a heated enclosure, it did a pretty good job of preventing that from happening
Riverghostspret i would say you need to keep the heat there
Riverghostso dont let breezes onto the print, try giving it a few enclosed sides, back, top, left n right
RiverghostNIKRE how about taking a prebuilt part and scaling it in autocad till you match the diameter your after?
nikreRiverghost, how can i modify stl files?
spretmalcom2073: thanks. What kind of material did you use?
malcom2073spret: for the enclosure? lexan
starnoRiverghost: if you measure 0.5mm out of the nozzle, its either a plastic with a lot of dieswell or a shitty machining job on the hole
malcom2073Aluminum t-slot frame, lexan panels, and a space heater to heat it
Riverghoststarno, that was measuring some cold 'ooze' that had been left from the head. will test before my next print to get a better idea.
Riverghostand dieswell?
MrVoltzOk, so the difference is like 20 °C
starnothe swelling effect of plastic as it exits nozzle orifice
ChristianSnikre: are you sure the smooth rod diameter is not parametric? it should be.
nikrelet me re-check
MrVoltzI'll try to create new temperature tables using createTemperatureLookupMarlin and thermistor datasheet
starnoRiverghost: this is what the extrusion profile really looks like
terramir_y-axis binding how to solve
robotustrascripture: "go home, no vodka in here"
terramir_what's up with the tank
pwillardTANKS everywhere...
terramir_who talks about bots in here anymore or has that moved to a different forum lol
Riverghosti was talking to starno
robotustrapwillard: tanks it's past, atomic bomb is something
robotustraI calibrated the printer yesterday evening
Wntnikre: I think it's not enough to simply scale the stl files to change the smooth rod dimension
robotustra4 iterations only
robotustranot bad
Riverghostrgr = roger, i meant i got what u were on about with the dieswell
Wntnikre: you would need to re-design lots of parts to support linear bearings that fit to 12mm rods
TBoneCam botlove!
kthxbotlove is also, Oh yeah, extrude that filament!
robotustraseen the_file
kthxthe_file was last seen in #reprap 2 days 55 min ago saying '_not_ _good_'.
Riverghostnikre - you upscaling your prusa?
nikreWnt, yes that's what i think too. i will have to trace a lot of parts :/
nikreRiverghost, i want to utilize the rods i already have
Riverghostahh i see
nikrealso with the hope to end up with a more rigid frame
Wntnikre: it might be a good project to get to know some 3D modeling software
nikreChristianS, the threaded rod diameter and smooth rod length are parametric on the configuration file. the smooth rod diameter is not parametric
nikreWnt, thats right
Wntbut it also might be prettu frustrating if you need to change lots of places manually
nikrechallenge accepted!
robotustraDelta printers are cool
LoetmichelWnt: or he couls just get a lathe andturn down the ends of the rods to 10mm
Loetmichel... and only resize the LM12UU holdert
MattyMattI'd just ream the holes out to 12mm
WntLoetmichel: and hope that there is enough space everywhere for the 12mm rods...
Loetmichelthere should be
Loetmichela 12mm rod is only a mm bigger in any dimesnion
Loetmicheli dont think they desined that narrow
MattyMattI made my printer in blender before I started. it was a standard sells but it was still nice to have it for reference
Loetmichelthem linear bearings cound be a problem, because they are a´miuch bigger if i remember correctly
MattyMattm90 seems easier to change things on
zimirkenhey, what process controls can i do to make my prints stronger in the z axis, besides speed and temp
zimirkenincrease nozzle width setting?
malcom2073Increase extrusion width setting, it will squish more and likely adhere more
Riverghostyah what malcom says
malcom2073Increase the number of perimiter walls. infill doesn't hold all that well in the Z (more X/Y), perimieter walls do most of the holding
zimirkeneven at 100% infill?
terramir_ehhhh who has a y-axis that moves a table still
malcom2073Don't know
malcom2073terramir_: I do
ChristianSnikre: there is an outcommented setting smooth_bar_diameter that you should set to 12
malcom2073Oh, nope no binding
malcom2073align your rods, they'll stop binding
ChristianSnikre: not sure if it'll have an effect, but i would hope so
terramir_what I was thinking any other causes?
MattyMattmoving bed Y lets you get that axis perfect before you even consider the others
Riverghostwhat temp do you guys use for your abs? im using 228c
zimirkenwould too thin extrusion width also cause quality problems? i was printing pla just fine but when i put in abs i got all kinds of holes and gaps in my perimeter
terramir_zimirken: abs tends to be the beast less forgiving
nikreChristianS, still can't find the line. line number?
terramir_need to ensure your actually got your e-steps and diameter right on
ChristianSnikre: search for smooth_bar_diameter in box_frame/configuration.scad
zimirkenheh, its silly, i have less troubles printing nylon trimmer line than abs, since I hardly ever use abs
terramir_yeah abs is a learning curve, pal easy nylon even easy too compared to abs
terramir_dang spell check
Riverghostso if i can nail a good print in abs, the rest should be easy(ish)
terramir_abs is the bi**h that could once you have the experience though
Smidge204__PLA is your PAL :D
terramir_smidge204_ what bot you running
zimirkenyeah, theres some things id like to print in abs for heat reasons
zimirkeni dont even know why we would print in abs in the first place
terramir_yeah ABS prints tend to be heat resistant enough
malcom2073I print ABS for the heat resistance
nikreChristianS, i have just downloaded from github. could it have changed?
terramir_got binding at faster speeds on my Y
malcom2073I don't print nylon because I have a jhead and love it :)
terramir_i2 as well
terramir_jheads are my cross
zimirkenI have a buda and i just keep a little fan on the cooling ring and i print nylon at 255
terramir_gave up on em except for 1.75mm PLA
Riverghostjhead no good for nylom?
malcom2073jhead no good above 260? iirc
terramir_nope can't take the temp
zimirkenmight want to get an e3d at some point though since i need more z strength in my nylon prints
malcom2073since it's got a PTFE liner
ChristianSnikre: configuration.scad is not in github, you have to copy it from configuration.scad.dist irrc
ChristianSnikre: and i think i'm u-to-date, but well...
robotustraHow the hot end on Rostock max is called?
terramir_Smidge204_ how's your binding situation right now exceeding 100mm/s and I'm dead in the water loose 100 200 steps grinding halt
pwillardMy head is good up to 400C, but needs a full time fan.
robotustrait has 2 resistors
terramir_well folks I'm gonna try to fix both my bots today :)
pwillardhas no PTFE in it, all metal
terramir_Y axis on both are sort of shot
robotustrapwillard: nice
terramir_still print but slow :(
terramir_very slow
robotustramy head have 2 plastics in it
terramir_well I gtg
Riverghoststill getting .5 being extruded starno
terramir_late folks
Smidge204__ @ terramir_
robotustraI think it's PEEM and PTFE
Smidge204__No bindnig except on the X, which has since been rebuild and works great
starnoRiverghost: thats fine. most likely a 0.4 with shitty runout
starnowhere did you get the nozzle?
terramir_I just missed that link
pwillardhas no PTFE in it, all metal, I didn't specify it in my kit, they added it (as it was in stock)
terramir_smudge send it again
Smidge204__ @ terramir_
Riverghostneed to not buy ebay filament i think
Smidge204__I should try that again now that I have a better hotend
starnoRiverghost: less likely a filament issue
pwillardhow the *f*ck* are you getting that speed?
terramir_smudge wtf is holding your table
terramir_i.e. holding your bearings
Smidge204__They're perss fit bronze bearings
terramir_I have a buda I should reach 200mm/s easy if I could get the rest of my bot to cooperate
terramir_no what's holding it
terramir_pretty cool
starnobronze bushings are awesome
Smidge204__maybe I don't understand "what's holding it"
Smidge204__It's a Makergear i2 kit. The Y carriage is laser cut plywood. The bushings press fit into that. Friction holds them.
terramir_under the table there is some sort of frame
terramir_oh ok
Smidge204__It's the worst part of the whole machine
terramir_laterz dudes and dudettes
terramir_terramir out for now
reprapper*v6 just arrived. morning
jeffdm_workreprapper: v6 E3D?
reprapperyes jeffdm_work
reprapperhave here now 3 V5 and one V6
robotustrawhat is this? :)
Smidge204__That's a URL. It's used to direct other people to content ont he internet.
malcom2073Heh, calibrate calibrate calibrate!
malcom2073Why waste so much filament on a failed print?
TBoneCammuch waste. such fail. wow
robotustramalcom2073: I ask the same question
robotustrathe calibration of rostock max v2 is quite easy
robotustraI did only 4 iterations for delta radius
robotustrabut I troubleshooted end stop switches for 1 hour
robotustrabecause they had bad contact in notmal position
robotustraI think it's because they were in stock for too long
robotustraand just oxidized
robotustraso, I rate rostock max v2 kit as 95/100
Smidge204__Okay, now that I watched that video... jesus what a mess
robotustraSmidge204__: the other question - why to put such video on youtube :)
malcom2073kthx tell Chewy64 Your wheels broke the 10EE :)
kthxmalcom2073: I'll pass that on when Chewy64 is around.
Smidge204__"why to put such video on youtube" applies to 99% of Youtube
robotustraSmidge204__: you are right
kthxclog is and is also
starnorobotustra: you all calibrated now?
robotustrastarno: yes
robotustraI did according to instruction, it's described very well
starnorobotustra: can you print this calibration object real quick and let me know the results?
starnorobotustra: I think its good enough to tell there is still more to go when the normal calibration protocol passes
robotustraI'm at work now. I'm going to print fan housing for PEEK cooling
starnoshould be 10min or so
robotustraand the second print is for Layer fan
robotustraafter I can print whatever
starnogahh, ok
robotustraI just calibrated by paper
starnoI understand
starnoanyone have a well calibrated deltabot and willing to run a quick diagnostic print?
Arc_Teslaany spaceX fans...heheh
robotustrahm, have to install stl viewer at work
Smidge204__Search for online stl viewer
Smidge204__If all you want to do is look
nikreSmidge204__, what is a good free tool to view stl files and also measure some distance on it?
Smidge204__Netfabb basic
malcom2073Arc_Tesla: cute
Arc_Teslamalcom2073 some serious Space geeks out there
malcom2073Arc_Tesla: Like you? :P
Arc_TeslaACTION rewrites
Arc_Teslamalcom2073 some serious spaceX geeks out there
starnohas anyone successfully used the "M190 R" "feature" in Marlin current?
kthxm190 is the M-code to Wait for bed temperature to reach target temp
nikrestarno, what does R parameter do?
starnofor the life of me I cant get it to do anything
starnofrom marlin_main.cpp
starnoM190 - Sxxx Wait for bed current temp to reach target temp. Waits only when heating
starno// Rxxx Wait for bed current temp to reach target temp. Waits when heating and cooling
nikre"m190 s" exists on default at start right?
starnoIm not sure what you mean
nikrei have "M190 Sxx" on any gcode file i create with slic3r. i use marlin.
starnoif I type M190 S80 into the serial, it sets the temperature as normal. M190 R80 does not
starnoIm pretty sure its a hole in the code, does it work for you?
nikreprinter is busy right now.
nikreare you digging the source code?
nikrei can help about that
starnohell no
robotustrastarno: what I sould do with this test?
starnoI would only mess something else up
robotustrameasure the thickness of the layers?
nikrethere's no big functionality game between r and s parameter
nikrefunctionality gap*
starnorobotustra: print it out at normal scale and measure the x/y distances
starnonikre: end goal is to set platform to 120C, wait for it to hit target, set to 50C, wait for it to hit target
starnonikre: I cant get it to wait when cooling with either S or R
Smidge204__What's the purpose of doign that?
starnoSmidge204: lifetesting
nikrewell for s parameter, the definition says it works for heating only
Smidge204__Ah k
starnonikre: yeah, thats in line with what Im getting too
nikrestarno, can you do it on pronterface?
nikrei guess pronterface can do it
starnoim in it right now
robotustrastarno: what are the overall size of your test?
nikreso you can set a lower target temp there right?
starnonikre: yeah
starnothis might be working actually
starnois there any reason why it wouldnt work in octoprint but would in printrun?
pwillardprobably more than 1
starnomore than 1 reason or more than 1 set temp?
starnoconfirmed, identical gcode, works as intended in printrun, doesnt work at all in octoprint :/
robotustracould you explain me why there are 2 sizes of filaments exists 1.75 mm and 3.0 mm?
robotustrais there any other sizes?
starnobecause ABS welding rod was manufactured at 3mm and instead of buying ABS from stratasys people sourced welding rod
robotustraand now 1.75 is more popular?
Smidge204__It's getting there
robotustrais there any difference in print with 3mm and 1.75 except the feed rate?
Smidge204__The smaller filament makes using small nozzles easier
malcom2073robotustra: 1.75 requires slightly more cooling on the cold-end of a jhead
robotustraI mean the quality of print
starnoits advantageous, 1.75 initially became a trend over the idea of replacing stratasys filament
robotustramalcom2073: I don't have Jhead
malcom2073robotustra: Can't say about other hotends, but it likely matters there to o:)
starno1.75 is more prone to humidity but is easier to handle and doesnt require as eloborate of an extruder setup to work
robotustrait seems to me that heating of 3mm filament is less even than 1.75 mm
robotustraI don't think I'll have humidity problem in Montreal
robotustraIt's quite dry here
malcom2073How dry is dry? les than 5%?
starnorobotustra: print that calib object please
robotustranot today for sure
robotustratomorrow probably
starnoI thought my deltaradius was onpoint but that told me otherwise
robotustrathis is a first print
robotustra - should be the second print
robotustraand after the test of cause
robotustraо, русиш детектед
starnonaz drovia
WntDo you think this is a good electronics kit for a i3, or are the motors underpowered like some reviews suggest?
ScribbleJA good electronics kit for an i3 is a RAMPS or a RAMBO.
Wntthat is a RAMPS + motor drivers, heated bed + motors
robotustranullie: печатаем что нибудь?
ScribbleJOh, so it is. Looks like a good deal.
Wntdisplay, sd card reader, endstops etc.
robotustranullie: why?
robotustranullie: а принтер хоть есть?
starnothose motors look a bit short and there is no specs on them
WntMy current Prusa printer taller motors than those. I haven't had problems with them, but I'm not sure about those small motors
nullierobotustra, rostock max
Wntstarno: indeed
robotustranullie: а какая версия?
nullierobotustra, 1
GeoffSJust ordered the SainSmart package for a delta (wolfstock). Not from Amazon
robotustranullie: я вчера закончил сборку кита v2
nullierobotustra, congratulations
robotustranullie: очень неплохой кит, мне понравилось в принципе, но пока не знаю как будет печатать
nullierobotustra, как настроишь, так и будет
robotustranullie: меня беспокоит немного хлипкость конструкции, а так в пинципе с калибровкой заморочек небыло
nullierobotustra, он геометрию немного меняет, если его переносить за стойки, а так вроде нормально
airking_Blockh34d, you here buddy?
airking_My replacement extruder parts get here today :)
airking_Hopefully I can finish my printer today
robotustranullie: ясно, буду знать, я стараюсь за основу брать, было желание проклеить основу, но не знаю хорошая ли это идея
nullierobotustra, думаю лучше всего за ушки сверху подвешивать
robotustranullie: У меня нету ушек, там у второй версии сверху 2 пластины
robotustraи закрытая коробка
phetseen Kliment
kthxKliment was last seen in #reprap 3 days 57 min ago saying '_Patte_: _Which_ _enables_ _you_ _to_ _use_ _a_ _lot_ _of_ _materials_'.
Wntargh! Amazon is so great. After I have committed to buying a product from them they inform me: "Important Message" "There is a slight problem with your order. (See below.)" "We're sorry. This item can't be shipped to your selected destination. You may either change the shipping address or delete the item from your order."
robotustraIf I'll ever build another printer it will be a delta + more rigid frame like kossel has
nullieWnt, yeah, that sucks
nullieWnt, use mail forwarder
Wntnullie: I'd rather buy from somewhere else after this kind of experience
robotustranullie: Меня кстати Николай зовут
joem_Joe Malone
joem_8:37 AM
joem_my next 3d printer:
joem_lol wrong window, but relevant
joem_tasty tasty 3d printed pancakes
malcom2073joem_: I want one of those :)
jeffdm_workThe last time I ordered from Amazon, and it wasn't until a couple days later that I realized they weren't going to ship for a month.
GeoffSWnt order direct from SianSmart - same price
robotustraRifRaf: did you finish your printer without lead screws?
jeffdm_workSainSmart's web price isn't always the same as elsewhere. I've seen different prices on eBay, Amazon and their own site.
GeoffSI paid $219 from SainSmart, free shipping
kthxpancakes is and is also lego pancake bot
t00tiejoem_: ^
WntGeoffS: yeah, I was thinking about the kit without the motors. It was a bit chaper on Amazon
WntGeoffS: do you have a opinion about those motors?
joem_t00tie, nice
Wntwell those are so cheap that I could try them out anyway... $47 for 5 motors. And the kit with the motors has a bigger display
GeoffSProbably under poered but considering the price of the kit ...
GeoffSI have some Inventables motors that I'll be using.
ScribbleJI've always used used motors in the past.
blockh34dACTION gradually compiles openscad
reprapperwow, V6 has very nice heat transmission
teepeeblockh34d: still on raspi?
blockh34di am pretty sure this program uses every other program ever made as a dependancy
blockh34dteepee yah thought i'd try to get the 3d preview window working
teepeeblockh34d: nope
teepeeblockh34d: I saw your messages in #openscad :)
blockh34dteepee: yah lol of course... its a big app... it's coming along, i had to crank up my virtual memeory way up
blockh34dfrom 100 to 500
teepeeblockh34d: not sure it will compile, the CGAL stuff is extremly heavy with templates
teepeeblockh34d: also currently it needs OpenGL 2.0, it will fail with GLES
blockh34dyah its working on thecgal polyhedron object now
teepeeblockh34d: but it would be massively awesome if someone has a nice idea how to fix that :)
blockh34dteepee: i figured i'd dump all the existing opengl stuff, makerpi vrsion that uses OpenMax and Opengles2 for display
teepeebut it's still GLES
blockh34dshould be nice and fast, not sure about sending it triangle data
blockh34drpi can handle opengles2 just fine
blockh34dtheres really no reason the qt ogl window shouldnt work, i don't know why it doesnt, but it doesnt
blockh34dteepee: i might have to get a cross compiler setup... been putting it off forever anways but it'd definately be a faster way to compile
teepeeyes, raspi can, but not the current openscad code ;)
teepeeblockh34d: get a wandboard :P
blockh34dteepee: well we'll see about that i've been doing some gamedev on rpi so i got a lot of working opengl code already to play with
blockh34dnever heard of it i'll check that out though thanks
robotustrawhat plastic is most rigid?
robotustraand cracky?
blockh34dteepee: maybe if i can do this for openscad, there could be peace between the artists and the programmers? Could there ever be? Sometimes i wonder... the openscad docs seem very anti-artist
teepeeblockh34d: Oskar did some fun experiments with the OpenGL stuff in OpenSCAD too ->
reprapperbest quote ever:
blockh34dteepee: oh thanks i'll check that out... polyhedron compiled, woot... thats the one thats been giving me the most guff so far
blockh34dteepee: did you know CAD as a system was invented by an artist... very well known one too, DaVinci
teepeeblockh34d: the idea is to look around if there's some not too heavy lib for doing the OpenGL stuff
blockh34dteepee: yah that'd be nice... seems like rpi is its own little monster though...
teepeeblockh34d: it's not perfect for compiling stuff :) not enough memory
blockh34dteepee: and omg the disk writes are SOOO SLOWWWWW
blockh34dllvm took about 2 days to compile. literally
teepeeblockh34d: i've used the 2gb ram quadcore wandboard (which also has SATA)
blockh34dteepee: oh, wandboard sounds kinda like odroid u3, which i was looking into
blockh34dteepee: i have sappy reasons for liking rpi... i really like nonprofits so even if its not the best platform to use, I'm going to try to make it work anyways
teepeeblockh34d: odroid is even faster, but wandboard is more openhardware ;)
blockh34dACTION wants more people using happily using rpis
blockh34dteepee: oh nice, open is good
blockh34dyeah bumping up vmem seemed to help a lot, its chugging along now
blockh34dteepee: btw i've decided not to put an outline editor into openscad directly, even though i think its a really, really good idea
blockh34dit just seems so contrary to what openscad is trying to be
blockh34di do really think it'd be a great addition though
teepeeblockh34d: hop over to #openscad ? ;)
nullierobotustra, pla is more rigid than abs
pwillardand drittle
pwillardbrittle, rather
MattyMattit's similar strength to ABS tho, from what data I've seen, so the brittleness is just an artifact of the stiffness
MattyMatttensile strength, and I have no idea if that's yield, total, or whatevs
robotustranullie: ok
robotustrapwillard: I need brittle material
MattyMattmaybe someone with a filabot can make you some PLA/starch mix. that'll be more brittle, and biodegrades quicker
SquirrelCZECHso filabots seems working well?
MattyMattI use the word generically. filastruder, lyman etc
SquirrelCZECHme too
MattyMattruss's is the best IMO, just because it's bigger and closer to a real IM screw machine
robotustraI want to print violin for my kids
codecreationsA working one?
robotustraof cause
codecreationsThat would be cool.
robotustraI'm a violin maker btw
MattyMattyou can have my cat for the strings
codecreationsi made a violin once. :)
robotustraI made 14 violins
robotustraand repaired a lot
codecreationsrobotustra: ^ ;)
robotustraand bows also
MattyMattI was actually wondering, just last night, how many violins you can make from one useless cat
MattyMattand it's leftovers from the quadcopter too
robotustracodecreations: this violin is not acceptable for kids who touch real one
codecreationsrobotustra: have you ever heard of Joseph Wallo (Washing DC area luthier)?
codecreationsrobotustra: Yes, but it's perfectly acceptiple for a kid who wands to play with a toy. :)
MattyMatt why orange propellors? you know which way is front
robotustracodecreations: I don't knoe him, but I see that he is doung guitars as well
robotustraI was mostly oriented to violins
brentruoh baby RAMBo mini
codecreationsI have one of his early guitars -- I was wondering if you had an insider perspective on quality...
codecreationsvery cool
MattyMattI considered making ukeleles for profit, but there's no profit in cheap instruments, and too much skill needed for expensive ones even with a cnc
brentruThat mini looks boss
brentruI wonder what the price of it is compared to a full rambo
robotustraMattyMatt: yep, that's why I don't make violins in canada
brentrucheaper machines if cheaper board
robotustrabtw, I had no problems with programming RAMBo board. Uploaded the firmware with no problem.
robotustraworks like a charm
crakanyone with hardware autolevel?
brentruyea, oly posted this yesterday
MattyMatta big cnc, a local forest full of maple etc, and a cnc carver+tuner for the backs, and I would be tempted to mass produce semi-good guitars
robotustracrak: hardware?
shaun413yo sup brne
crakservos and shit
shaun413im in love man
brentru^rambo mini boy
shaun413with this monitor
shaun413oh shit
brentrukthx rambo mini is sneek peek
kthxbrentru: Okay.
shaun413Ima edit some photoso on this beast
shaun41316.7 color
brentrucant wait until she asks for it back
shaun413she wont
shaun413why would she
robotustrathe next stage for me is to make soundproof housing for 3d printer as I like :)
shaun413just get some stepper dampers
brentrustepper dampers?
kthxstepper dampers are
shaun413courtesy of rubellTech
robotustrahousing will equalize temperature
robotustraas well
robotustraand prevet form kids poking their fingers
robotustrain hotbed
shaun413get rid of the kids?
robotustratoo late
brentruit's never too late
codecreationsno, shaun413 -- it's rambarduinomegaloluini
shaun413ah ok codecreations
shaun413i see
brentrucodecreations: do you have any updates on this board from ultimachine johnny?
robotustraI think they will like to watch something is printing
codecreationsi do not.
brentruoly posted that pic on his fb last night
MattyMattI couldn't find a pic of the classic radioshack one
MattyMattwhich is cool, that one wasn't makable out of mdf
robotustrabrentru: oh I build my own for CNC
airking_Anyone here use octoprint?
robotustraworks nice
shaun413this is the makings of a rostock mini
robotustrabrentru: err not to you
brentruI know that
robotustraMattyMatt: I did my own
codecreationsbbl folks -->
MattyMattah, I thought you were about to get started
MattyMattthere's a cople of useful ideas to steal from those, like the brushes on the paper (filament) entry slots
brentrushaun413: this and the new spring-loaded carriages are going to prob be the romini
shaun413romini is real?
MattyMattrobosutra, that's like mine, but mine doesn't have so much metal in the middle :)
brentrushaun413: the orion is real
shaun413well yes
shaun413thats not a romini
brentruIt's smaller than a romax
terramir177mm/s all I get on Y :(
shaun413so is an I3
brentruwhat would you say a romini is...
shaun413rostock mini
MattyMatt mine was intended to be enclosed, but I'll need a shorter Z first
brentruhow does it look diff from an orion?
terramirmatyMatt what bot you got?
shaun413it doesnt say orion
shaun413it says rostock mini
shaun413and a face
terramirand are you using lm8uu?
shaun413see me cnc
MattyMattMattCorp DremelWielder 3000
brentruin action
MattyMattI found some more old pics. I'lll add them to that album
brentrufeat: john
terramiryou using lm8uu?
brentrualmost 1mo away from MF Detroit and SeeMe
brentrunewark is cheaper than jfk...
brentrudelta has some $381 flights though from JFK...
NETiohmm, awoke to first failed print in a long time
brentruhow bad was the flop?
shaun413brentru, this is only 1080p
shaun413looks crappy
shaun413say that 5 years ago
brentrushaun413: you have a 4k-capable camera?
brentrutell me more shane, tell me more
terramirMatty I'm trying to figure something out and I was wondering if you have something simular to a mendel
shaun413for video?
brentrufor video
terramirNETio: when you had your prusa2 did you use lm8uu
shaun413its 1080p
kthxi4 is in the works for 2014
shaun413kthx, forget i4
kthxshaun413: I've forgotten about i4.
terramir:( used to be you could ask questions here
shaun413kthx, i4 is in the works for 2014, and will be a mass produced sheet metal printer.
kthxshaun413: Okay.
kthxi4 is in the works for 2014, and will be a mass produced sheet metal printer.
brentruwhen did josef say that
terramiron twitter a few days ago
pwillardACTION dislikes the sheet metal machines.
shaun413twitter a few weeks ago
brentruACTION shakes a metal printrbot simple in pwillard's face
terramirkthx i4 will also not be able to be home built
shaun413kthx, i4 is also not a self built reprap.
kthxshaun413: Okay.
brentruOh shaun
kthxi4 is in the works for 2014, and will be a mass produced sheet metal printer. and is also not a self built reprap.
brentrui4 is also 15x15x30cm build volume, PLA, and inexpensive
terramirI was doing it
shaun413700 dollars
terramirbe polite
shaun413i typed before i saw
shaun413my deepest appologies
brentruWhere is he saying 700 shane
terramirI gotta tell you 700 bucks sheet metal I'm scared
jglaucheterramir: I'd be scared if he could deliver
kthxcalculator is Sweet and hip version 3 is now online!! an and is also
brentruunder $700
jeffdm_workHmmm, the post wasn't dated April 1.
brentruSo i4 plan. Sheet metal, bowden, 1,75mm, easy to mass manufacture not self built unfortunately, but I hope for under $700 final cost
shaun413hes just trying to make money now
TheSchaf!seen josefprusa
crakwhich is normal
jglauchethat was not my impression last time I visited him
TheSchafwhen was last time he was in irc?
brentruyea shaun
terramirjglauche deliver yes
brentruyou're wrong
jeffdm_workMaybe June 10 is one of those "joke" days in the Czech republic?
brentruhe doesnt want to make money, he wants to make it accessible
terramirbut will it be as good as the i3
brentruthe sheet metal machines are REALLY good
crakit should be even better
brentruthere's only two out right now and they are fantastic
brentruUltimaker 2
brentruPB Simple
brentruer, Simple Metal
terramirjglauche: you old school I remember you from way back when
brentruThey are rigid AF and are extremely repeatable
crakmore repeatability
jglaucheterramir: yes, same.
terramirneed some trouble shooting help
MattyMattterramir, it may not be obvious, but MattyMill Mk1 is actually inspired by mendel, in particular Ed Sells' video about it
jglauchego ahead
terramirbeen out of the game too long rusty
terramirlm8uu on y bed max speed usually?
terramirb4 it starts stalling
MattyMattdrawer slides
terramiryeah not what I got right now
terramirbut cool
MattyMattthe balls don't have to go round corners on a drawer slide
jglaucheterramir: depends on your smooth rod quality, lm8uu quality, paralellism of your Y rods, belt tension, motor specs and motor current
terramiryeah right now trying to fix the y axis
jglaucheon what machine?
terramirgot a frak'ed up distance right now 136.3 between smooth rods
MattyMattI'm wondering why more machines don't use non-recirculating balls. the only disadvantage is they get exposed to air and dust
jglaucheterramir: make absolutely sure that the y rods are paralell to max 0.1mm
terramirgt2 and those 4mm shaft motors ohmeye uses
terramirthey are but I might be tweaking things
jglaucheso can you move it by hand easily?
terramirlike I dunno the exact distance
terramirnot while the belt is tight
jglauchedoes the belt get stuck somewhere?
terramirdeep boing instead of high pitched
terramirno not stuck belt is ok just thinkinking I dun have the distance right yet
jglauchedistance of what?
recon_lapterramir: have you printed one of those adjustable y bearing holders?
terramirat 175 the sound it ok at 180mm/s in starts to sound like it's binding but still moving
terramirthe smooth rods
jglauche175 is not too bad
terramirnot sure what the right distance is somewhere between 135.5 and 137 I'm thinking
jglauchethat can be specific to your y plate
terramirtrying to determine the right distance by maxing out the speed
terramiryeah I know but the exact number I dun remember
jglaucheyou should upgrade to i3 :)
terramirdam I;m gonna have to open psu
terramirtoomuch dust fan stalling
terramiractually planning on finishing the i3 I got in the closet lol
chris33So prusa will be opting out open source for the i4
bill2or3chriss33: nothing has suggested that.
codecreationsi4 is also not simply i3+1 because that's not how the math works -- it's (3+1)(sqrt(-1))
terramirnot opting out of open source just opting out of designing it so you can build it yourself unless you got a factory
chris33Sheet metal printer mass produced
bill2or3right, but that's not the same thing as closed source.
jglaucheKliment: font printed out very nicely
MattyMattloetmichel could make one. he's ace at metalbending
terramirjglauche: what's the max I should get on y optimally with lm8uu
jglaucheterramir: I'd say the values you get are fine
chris33So for instance instead of trying to make it easier for someone build it you can but you need a press brake
jglaucheterramir: and I would not dare to drive an i2 higher than 120mm/s
terramir\gonna go up and down with the distance and slow steps till I find the max I need to figure out the right rod spacing
LoetmichelMattyMatt: i dont even have a bending brake ;-)
blockh34dis SLS home hobbyist DIY friendly or not at all yet?
MattyMattpress brake is a luxury, you can do all the bending you need with some angle iron and clamps
chris33Yed but it not simple its actually reverse engineered
blockh34dchris33: me? re sls?
chris33Going backwards instead of forwards
terramirjglauche: not for printing just to determine the optimal distance between rods
LoetmichelMattyMatt: i usually use my hands
terramirfor my bed
Loetmichelonle very small flanges i moint int the vice to bend
blockh34di keep thinking of making a brake here with some of this giant angle iron i scrapped and my welder
blockh34danyone know any particuarlly nice DIY plans for that sorta thing?
MattyMattthere's some good vids on YT
blockh34dsounds easy i might just wing it
blockh34dcool i'll have to check that out when i 'm done failing to compile openscad
terramirIif I had a welder I'd be done with my brake making it out of old bed frames
terramirand old school door hinges
blockh34dterramir: oh thats a good idea, i have a little hill of old bed frames out back
blockh34di planned on making the hinge out of pipe cuts and allthread though
blockh34dever tried that?
Loetmichelblockh34d: i just bought a used "knee press" that will be used as a bending press soon. (when i get the time to make the V-tools and knifes for it)
blockh34dbasically like making one of those door hings
jeffdm_homeIt's probably just one of those things that's more practical to buy from someone that makes dozens or hundreds of kits at a time.
terramirscrew like three or four layers together
jeffdm_homeIt's also possible to make circuits at home, but people generally tend to just buy those too.
terramirI dun have a welder but seen it online
blockh34dLoetmichel: cool, i can't click link right now though i probably shouldnt even be running x
Loetmichel... it can do 750kN ;-)
terramirwell time to clean psu
blockh34dterramir: gl, btw maybe soon me and a friend make diy welder tut :)
blockh34di think everyone should have a welder
blockh34dwith some printed parts, maybe we can make it like a mig
jeffdm_homeNot unless they're willing to spend the time to get good at welding.
terramirI want an hydroxy welder
chris33Yeah if i had a welder everything would be welded together
MattyMattblockh34d, this is one of the better vids
blockh34dhey great thanks MattyMatt
blockh34di'll have to grab that later though, i have the beginning saved for now so i know what to get when all my disk isnt in use
blockh34dright now i have almost all avail diskspace turned into swap for compile
blockh34dreally need to just get cross-compiling setup
blockh34dughh too many ideas not enough time... diy mig sounds pretty epic, and not that hard
blockh34danyone else think thats neat, want to try it? maybe we combine forces, captain planet style
Loetmicheli would go for a combi
blockh34dplasma cutter/mig?
NETioterramir: No. I used precision brass bushings
Loetmichelthat would be nice
blockh34dLoetmichel: hell ya it would
Loetmicheland smps
Loetmichelso carry around style
blockh34dyah definately man that'd be great
NETioterramir: Was a very nice machine, except for the z-wobble and inherent problems with the i2 like moving the whole bed and also had a warped wooden bed. The build height limited me alot too
MattyMattlike in ghostbusters?
blockh34dor maybe wheel it around even, if it was big at first
blockh34dbut i bet it could be packed into basically a suitcase, sure
NETioI know what MIG/TIG/Plasma are
Loetmichelno, i meant like the little smps mma welders
blockh34dLoetmichel: man you'd be way better at that than me, what do you think about spearheading something like that?
blockh34dLoetmichel: i could help, maybe, i dunno how but maybe we figure it out
NETiook, so in welding SMPS is just switching mode power supply
blockh34di just look at that extruder and think 'thats most of a mig'... hell the hotend is even real similar to the tip of a mig
Loetmichelsomething like that, 80-120A, small gas bottle in the back drive for the migmag wire, hf ignition for tig and plasma... and a few mor plug options on the front.
LoetmichelDONE ;-)
MattyMattwhat about that kind that dentists use? the arc is in a waterjet so it can do fine welds on stainless wire etc
NETiodentists use welders O.o
blockh34dLoetmichel: yah thats how my MIG is, pretty small, easy to carry around... not really the deepest welds but its not bad
blockh34dyeah welding dentists is pretty terrifying
blockh34dthats right outta little shop of horrors
LoetmichelNETio: i've seen dentists use laser welders!
NETiothe day I see my dentist walk in with a welder is the day I run out of there screaming
macegrare you thinking of doing a kickstarter for a MiG welding pen?
macegrjust string together some supernatural tech requirements and the money will roll in
blockh34dLoetmichel: what if i more or less plan out the goal/docs/illustrations/bs of a project like that, and you keep an eye on process/schematics/etc to make sure it works and is what you think it should be?
macegrpeople will believe anything after Iron Man
blockh34dLoetmichel: i think it'd be great so if you're into making that happen, however you prefer lemme know we'll get started
NETioYou could make it use those little airsoft CO2 canisters
NETioLike 9gram canisters
MattyMatt this one looks like a single shot EDM machine, but presumambly with current going the other way (or maybe not as they don't want contamination in the weld)
blockh34dsame to everyone actually
NETioHmm, what if I made a kickstarted for a "welding pen" and in fact it was just a soldering pen... sketchy but profitable
blockh34d'cold fusion pen'
NETioyeah, the tip can be tocuhed immediately after use too
blockh34dthey'd buy it, all day
macegrliterally a pencil torch off the shelf
MattyMattaka glue stick
blockh34dNETio: yes but your electronics will never work again
NETiocold heat was terrible
blockh34dNETio: what a horrible soldering iron don't every use that cold shit its just the worst
airking_blockh34d: whazzup
blockh34d'yeah, so we short a giant charge into some graphite here!!!! and then.... ________ and then... PROFIT!!'
NETiosomeone bought me one as a gift, I used it like 4 times, broke the tip. I also knew if I touched it to anything electronic it'd likely kill it. It's the opposite of ESD-safe. I like my Hakko 936 clone (Yihua brand I think)
blockh34dairking_: nomuch hows it going
NETionever made a good joint with it either
NETiocold joints every time
macegr*sigh* like a sloppy, dirty boy i decided to leave dangling filament during my auto level sequence...of course, the probe swivels down and exactly pokes the loose filament
airking_blockh34d: pretty well, should be able to finish my printer today
blockh34dairking_: awesome, which one again? kinda bad memory here
airking_Same as yours i3v
codecreationsseen reifsnyderb
kthxreifsnyderb was last seen in #reprap 3 days 28 min ago saying '_seen_ _j_glauche_?'.
blockh34dairking_: oh ok great, so you've got the frame built and you're onto the electronics now?
airking_blockh34d: yup, had to wait on replacement extruder block and idler, they were slightly warped. Colin sent replacements
blockh34dairking_: oh thats right i remember now... yah hey great glad to hear they got you took care of, i'm not surprised they were always quick and responsive when i needed help too.
blockh34dairking_: have you been watching the videos closely before actually doing them? highly recommended.
airking_blockh34d: yup
blockh34dwell good luck! i'd make sure some things are nice and good now before you do much more, like that your carraige is well aligned onto its railes, and the platter too... it shouldnt be looser on one side or another, or overly stiff anywhere
macegrI can now confirm there is a big difference in first layer hold, between regular elmer's glue stick, purple disappearing stick, and extra strength
macegrDefinitely use Extra Strength glue stick for nylon
blockh34dmacegr: noted, what is the stickiness of each?
macegrfirst two are around the same
blockh34dso you use the extra strength on what, blue tape? or glass?
airking_Blockh34d: Yep, I made sure belt tension and the eccentric spacers were all right before I moved on, less work to do later.
blockh34dairking_: yes and their easier to get to without the electronics
macegri stopped using blue tape after i removed my first print ever on glass
macegrI don't understand why anyone uses blue tape or kapton now if they have the option to install glass
blockh34dairking_: hey you might want to take a close look at your extruder and make sure its larger gear is carefully on there to have just enough play it stays a little loose, then take its jamnuts and make sure they are crazy super tight into each other but not the larger gear. I found the larger gear would bind itself to the extruder if those jamnuts aren't crazy tight
macegrI don't have jam nuts...just washers and nyloc
blockh34dmacegr: yah i've wondered but sometimes i hear about 'it only sepearted fromt eh glass easy at first, then it changed and now its a pain in the ass' so i've been sticking to the tape for now
blockh34dalso i've found nylon fused to tape is crazy strong even almost paper thin
blockh34dfor gliders and ultralight stuff
macegri don't want a difficult to apply consumable
macegri've never used straight heated glass
jeffdm_homemacegr, I don't think anyone does, but direct to glass only worked a big for me.
blockh34dyah i'm just expirimenting and stuff here, no real set standard just seeing what works
NETiomacegr: Because a lot of us don't get good results with ABS on glass
macegrwhen i print ABS on glass i use ABS juice
jeffdm_homeDirect to glass with ABS risks pulling up bits of the glass.
macegr....and i heat the glass.
NETioYeah, that's why I got phenolic for Nylon after seeing a picture of a shattered sheet of borosilicate glass that had nylon printed on it with gluestick
NETioand I've heard of people pulling chunks of glass out when they use ABS Juice
ScribbleJ45 minutes in to a good print. Power goes out for five minutes.
macegrsticky stuff pulling up bits of glass is actually a very old technique for decorative glasswork
macegrNETio: I haven't printed 618 on glass
macegrjust on garolite
macegrBridge is working great on glass but i'm doing small parts
NETioNeither have I. I use phenolic (xx-grade) which is like garolite
NETioI print mainly with trimmer line nylon. It's cheap
macegri have a 12x12x1/4 slab of garolite
NETioI have a 12x12x0.365 slab of XX-Grade Mil-Spec Phenolic
macegrit's cool stuff
macegri'm willing to pay a small premium for trouble free printing
NETionylon sticks too good so I use a very light coat of gluestick to decrease adhesion. Think I'm going to try backing down temperatures. Been using 65-70C for it, I've heard 45-50C is good since it's near the glass transition temp of 47C
macegri don't buy shit filament, but neither do i buy Diamond Age
robotustraWho ever user UPS with printers?
kthxhangout is a persistent audio and video chat room, open 24/7. - Requires a google login. (Blame Canada)
NETiomacegr: I use phenolic for Nylon and PEI for ABS now. Loving the PEI so far
BlobWhich side of the heated bed pcb faces up when using with glass bed, the side with lines, or the flat side?
NETioI've printed 3 parts that I had to use brims with on glass w/ hairsrpay and still got a tiny bit of warping. No warping on the PEI
NETioand no brim :D
NETioBlob: I use the heating elements facing up
NETioBlob: "Lines" side up
BlobNETio: Thanks, that's what I thought.
macegri'm honestly not going to be printing as much ABS
reprapperi dont understand why e3d keeps on using those tiny thermistors instead of the large ones
NETioPEI works amazing for PLA too, but IME so does simple bare glass
macegri didn't bother with bare glass
NETioI don't print much PLA, haven't got it working well through the E3D v5 yet to be honest
macegri don't want to clean the printbed all the time, i run an assembly line here
macegrprint 10 parts, give it a cursory scrape with a razor and a thin refresher coat of glue stick, hit print again
macegrdon't even take off the leftover glue, just smooth out any bumps really
robotustrawhat is PEI?
kthxPEI is and is also and is also
BubbleRepwhat large ones reprapper?
NETiokthx: PEI is also a reusable maintenance free build surface for both ABS and PLA (only for heated beds). You can laminate 0.030" or 0.040" thick PEI onto glass with 3M 468MP adhesive tape.
kthxNETio: Okay.
kthxPEI is and is also and is also and is also a reusable maintenance free build surface for both ABS and PLA (only for heated beds). You can laminate 0.030" or 0.040" thick PEI onto glass with 3M 468MP adhesive tape.
starnoanyone have video or photos of ABS on PEI?
starnoNETio: whats the biggest hting you have printing in ABS without a brim?
mutley_reprapper: and i dont understand why the lord made us a flat planet
robotustramutley_: :)
mastag25anyone know some bottles or something I can put ABS juice in?
MattyMattglass is good
MattyMattjam jar
MattyMattwith a metal screw top lid, although the plastic lining will propably rot out
robotustraI think aceton does not dissolve Polyethilen bottlse also
MattyMattyeah acetone comes in PE afaict
robotustrait can be a bottle from PVA glue
robotustrato squirt a bit on glass and spread it over surface
robotustrappl use twitter?
macegrYour mom does....oh hmm
macegrrobotustra: Sorry I don't have you on snapchat
robotustramy mom doesn't know that is internet
macegrand i am also not a 17 year old girl
macegrI think Twitter has a better user experience for photos than Flickr at this point
robotustratwitter, facebook, g+ are useless stuff for me
robotustraI don't understand what is "user experience" with respect to website
robotustraespecially when peolpe talk about "better"
macegrThe experience that you, a user, has while accessing and performing tasks with the website
robotustraactually, I'm not going to be a user of such sites, becasue the whole idea of colial networking is fail for me
mastag25<robotustra> to squirt a bit on glass and spread it over surface
mastag25elmer's glue + acetone?
robotustraabs 30% + acetone
robotustrasomebody told that it's a good proportion
graphicsforgeit's effective under a wide tolerance of ratios
robotustragraphicsforge: you mean if I'm going to print 0.1 mm layer abs + acetone is not good choise?
graphicsforgeoh, I mean to say you don't need to worry about hitting 1part abs to 2parts acetone
reprappermutley: i also have no clue
malcom2073mastag25: I use a pyrex container with rubber lid for my abs+acetone mix
reprapperbubblerep: ?
malcom2073mastag25: it's a kind of glass
malcom2073the nice thing is the rubber lid
mastag25the lid can take acentone without being eaten?
BubbleRep reprapper | i dont understand why e3d keeps on using those tiny thermistors instead of the large ones <- you should remember what you said 5 minutes earlier :P
robotustraI have an idea
zimirkenthreaded heat inserts for plastic are so wonderful
robotustrawhy not to use nichrome wire in the hot end
malcom2073robotustra: early hotends did that
malcom2073heater cartridge is much better though, easier to design around, better heat transfer, etc
robotustrait was bad idea so
malcom2073Nah not bad, like I said the origonal hotends used nichrome wire to heat them up
malcom2073But there are better methods nowadays :)
robotustrayeah, possible
zaubaraguys, any clue why my kossel (ramps, johanns marlin) freezes for 2-5 seconds randomly mid print? :/ didnt do that yesterday...
mastag25that work OK/
jeffdm_workI think it was more like the original reprappers didn't know what was available to them. It might be also that they were prohibitively expensive.
malcom2073mastag25: those look VERY close to identical to the ones I have
malcom2073zaubara: running out of serial buffer perhaps?
malcom2073What program are you using to send gcode?
MattyMattI've heard nichrome heatcores are still slightly better. the issue is the trouble to make them, and the exotic adhesives you need
zaubaramalcom2073: thanks :) erm, possibly, how do i check that? is that the space left on the device arduino tells me after uploading? i'm using cura at the moment
malcom2073zaubara: Oh you're printing from SD?
zaubaramalcom2073: oh, no, cura via usb. i meant the space left on the device after uploading the firmware
malcom2073zaubara: no, I mean space left when sending gcode. not familair with Cura, so I don't know if it will let you know if the buffer is getting low or not
MattyMattmastag be careful buying Pyrex brand cookware from the US factory. they don't always use boro these days
mastag25recommend something else?
MattyMattand as a result, there are horror stories about exploding casseroles
zaubaramalcom2073: ok :) cura uses printrun it looks like; what tool does tell me a low buffer?
malcom2073zaubara: Not that familair with printrun either, though pronterface uses it,and wil ltell you in its text window
malcom2073ScribbleJ: nice, run on smooth rod?
mastag25exploding casseroles ?
Smidge204__MattyMatt: That's because Pyrex is no longer a Corning brand :/
Smidge204__New stuff with the "Pyrex" label is just soda lime glass and not nearly as resistant to heat shock
ccecil"Pyrex" is soda lime glass now
ScribbleJmalcom2073, no, they're for managing the belt path on a core xy printer design.
mastag25i was going to use it for abs juice only
malcom2073ScribbleJ: Ah cool
ccecilSmidge204__: :)
mastag25its not going into anything else
Smidge204__Shit's whack, yo
malcom2073Yeah I wouldn't trust it for heat, but should be fine for abs juice. Double check and test the lids for acetone resistance first though
malcom2073Mine are really old, so who knows if they changed
ccecilSmidge204__: I was reading something about the effect the switch to soda lime glass had on the crack trade :)
zaubaramalcom2073: looks like thats not the problem then: the numbers are just from the g29, auto leveling
ccecilSmidge204__: exploding kitchenware
malcom2073zaubara: ah hmm, don't know then
Smidge204__Should be getting boro lab-grade stuff anyway.
zaubaramalcom2073: k, thanks anyways :)
malcom2073zaubara: Yourunning at 250k baud?
zaubaramalcom2073: i think so? at the start it tells me its detecting the baudrate, but it doesnt tell me which it actually uses
reprapperbubblerep: ah, sory i smoked too many trinitylabs bongs, so my bain isnt that fine anymore
malcom2073zaubara: if defaults, then yeah
malcom2073zaubara: You can enable debugging of sorts in printrun I think, see the actual gcode it is sending, see if when it pauses, it's still sending gcode
malcom2073or ifit stops responding entirely when it pauses
mastag25i dont need to worry about acetone after the initial breakdown of the ABS right
mastag25since it's just a sludge after that
reifsnyderbseen codecreations ?
kthxcodecreations was last seen in #reprap 1 hour 12 min ago saying '_seen_ _r_eifsnyderb_'.
malcom2073mastag25: I'd keep it in a sealed container, but otherwise what do you mean?
mastag25i just mean that it wont be acetone anymore so it wont eat away anything covering it since it's just abs sludge
malcom2073mastag25: No, it'll still be acetone
malcom2073just with dissolved ABS in it :)
mastag25i thought the acetone evaporated
malcom2073It does eventually, but that'll leave you with hard abs
malcom2073you want sludge, which is acetone and abs
MattyMattwhen all the acetone is gone, you'll have a hard lump of ABS
mastag25i just dont want to buy the bowls if they arent going to work ya know
MattyMattuse a jam jar
MattyMattor PB
MattyMattor nutella, although I think they're all plastic these days
mastag25i dont know any PB in glass either heh
MattyMattnescafe jars are all glass here
MattyMattand they are a good shape for non-drop
MattyMattI suspect the lids are ABS tho
mastag25not sure if there's anything on the lids
MattyMattthey (used to) have natural red rubber grommets
MattyMatt4oz is puny
Smidge204__Quilted for extra... softness?
Smidge204__I'm guessing you're looking for a container to do vapor treatment in
Smidge204__'cause I missed the beginning of this, and I'll be damned if I'm gonna scroll up now
MattyMattjust for storage of excess abs sludge
MattyMattnot something I'd pay good money for, while all this food packaging goes in the bin every day
Smidge204__Just about any jar will do
MattyMattor PET bottle
MattyMatthave a coke and a smile
jdiezso I got the 12V lead acid battery for my printer
jdieznow I don't have a 18 DC PSU for the charger circuit
jdiezACTION facepalms
Smidge204__Plastic jars (eg peanutbutter) are PET
mutley_crunchy or smooth
MattyMattI'm on the smooth until I print some teeth
mutley_jdiez: dont forget the charger
recon_lapjdiez: laptop power brick?
jdiezrecon_lap: none of them that I found at home go to 18V
mutley_jdiez: halfords
jdiezim in spain mutley_
recon_lapjdiez: though 18v was pretty common for laptops
mutley_halfordos then
robotustrajdiez: :)
jdiezmutley_: lol
Smidge204__Why do you need 18V for a 12V Pb battery?
MattyMatt19V is commoner
mastag25coworker just had a pyrex thing delivered from amazon
jdiezrecon_lap: i might find some of those regulable power supplies
mastag25the lid says bpa free
mastag25does that help at all
jdiezSmidge204__: for the charger circuit I'm gonna build, to compensate for the regulator vdrop
MattyMattmastag, the ad says that. all that says is it isn't PET probably
recon_lappff, 19v is close enough to 18v :)
jdiezyeah, 19v is close enough
Smidge204__regulator has >4v drop? Most Pb batts charge at like 14V right?
mutley_ok so me is getting e shit sorted out
jdiezbut I don't have those either
jdiezSmidge204__: it's less than 4v, and yes, it does charge at 14.4V
mutley_then me gets handed another shovel of shit out of nowhere
mutley_but not stopping me shippy
jdiezcan't find the darn datasheet
recon_lapmutley_: dont forget to sort those menus out :)
Guest95543hey, i'm facing a problem with my heatbed. It constantly overheat despite the thermistor works... has anyone ever faced same sort of problems?
mutley_recon_lap: the shovel is over there, just place iit on top
mutley_lol usually people complain their heatbed wont get up to temp
Smidge204__Guest27358: Define "overheat" - like, it overshoots, or does it get to the verge of causing a fire?
recon_lapmutley_: it an easy fix, just do a button menu or a dropdown , not a bit of both in the menu
mutley_ahh yes talking of which, prusa heatbeds start to go dark when set to 140
mutley_ive got a nice dark red pcb heatbed now
mutley_recon_lap: i know, ill get there in the end
jdiezlol mutley_
Guest95543I was first using my printer with ATX 12V power supply but I chanced it now to 24V screwterminal power supply and this started to happend
jdiezoh that's a pretty good idea Guest95543
jdiezI could use an atx power supply to get my 18V
Smidge204__Guest95543": Okay yeah that makes sense. Double the voltage means FOUR TIMES the power.
Smidge204__Guest95543: So you can go into your firmware and reduce the max PID rate, then retune
mutley_but jdiez atx will give you the 12v you need no?
jdiezmutley_: yes but I need at least ~16-17V
Smidge204__Or, if you have a newer PCB heatbed, it might ahve a 24V wiring configuration
jdiezthat's going straight to the regulator
Guest95543all was well with ATX 12V and all was well
mutley_ahhh so captain lo
mastag25is it made for 24v?
MattyMattjdiez, lead acid chargers don't need regulators much
Smidge204__Guest95543: Like I said, 2X the voltage equals 4X the power.
mutley_Sly and Robbie once had a huge hit with Fire, i dont think this will be the same though
Smidge204__So it's goign to heat up super duper quick
jdiezMattyMatt: I'm building a smart-ish regulator, that will feed the battery 14.5V when it's not fully charged an float-charge it otherwise
mutley_but jdiez isnt that what a battery charger does?
jdiez(float-charging being 13.5V I think)
jdiezmutley_: yes, i'm building one :P
mutley_ahh gotcha halfordos is closed then heh
mutley_i love this place
jdieznah, I want to learn how they work
jdiezso I'm gonna build one
mutley_ok fair comment
mutley_shall i get popcorn seeds ready for the hot plate?
jdiezgoddamn internet
mutley_so apparently the I4 iis released or close to released according to JP on twitter
kthxi4 is in the works for 2014, and will be a mass produced sheet metal printer. and is also not a self built reprap.
jdiez>not a self built reprap
MattyMattGuest95543, with ramps, you can run the heatbed on 12V, and everything else on 24V
mutley_but someone said to me isnt he going to finish the i3 first
kthxatx is and is also and is also and is also and is also
kthxthis is why I love #reprap
robotustrajdiez: I'd alredy assembled the printer
jdiezrobotustra: nice, is it printing well
Guest95543i'm using sanguinololu and the heatbed is PCB heatbed MK2
Smidge204__jdiez: You can get 18-24V by cascading two ATX supplies if you're daring enough
robotustrajdiez: today will do first try
jdiezSmidge204__: can't I get 24V from an ATX psu?
jdieznope, only 12V
jdiezmy evil plans are foiled again
mutley_funny thingt all this does sound safr than those chinese 12v suppluies lol
robotustraI finished calubration too late yesterday
Smidge204__jdiez: use two ATX supplies
jdiezSmidge204__: how?
Smidge204__Isolate the ground of one
Smidge204__Preferably both
MattyMattI curious about what it'd take to up the volts on an ATX. afaik, it'd be just the zener, maybe a couple more turns on the transformer, and stuff
jdiezoh, so connect them in series
Smidge204__And connect the +12 of one to the ground of the other
robotustraI would use DC-DC step UP
Smidge204__If you're careful, it'll be fine
jdiezyeah, I'd use a boost converter too
jdiezbut I think I'm gonna look for a bigger laptop power suppy first
jdiezbefore burning my house down
Smidge204__How "clean" does the power need to be?
MattyMatttoshiba ones are 15V 5A
jdiezSmidge204__: doesn't matter, it's gonna go straight to the reg
Smidge204__Like, maybe just steal a transformer from something and throw a bridge rectifier on it
jdiezMattyMatt: 15V ain't enough
Smidge204__Couple smoothing caps, done
Smidge204__I think I have a transformer out of an old UPS that outputs 18.somethingV
robotustrajdiez: what do you need the power supply for?
jdiezrobotustra: I'm building a DC UPS for my printer
Smidge204__Use 35V electrolytic caps
robotustrajdiez: ok
robotustrawhy can't you take any PC UPS?
bill2or3jdiez: could you use a regular UPS, but tap directly off the 12v battery?
zaubaradoes some1 know better glass bed brackets than those: ? my plate started rattling due to the vibrations...
kthx => => 0 comments, 1 IRC mention
zaubaramini kossel that is
Smidge204__zaubara: Shim them!
Smidge204__Wedge bits of paper in there
jdiezrobotustra, bill2or3: where's the fun in that :P
jdiezyes zaubara
jdiezlet me get it for you
Smidge204__bill2or3: The UPS would have a shitfit
Smidge204__Unless it was a high-end double conversion type
MattyMattI found a 350VA ups at the dump
zaubaraSmiedge204__: thanks, already did that on one side, was hoping for different ones ;-)
jdiezanyway the eventual goal of this PSU project is to run my printer completely off renewable energies
zaubarajdiez: awesome thanks :)
jdiezsolar etc
MattyMattups with dead batteries get dumped all the time
jdiezdesigned by moi
MattyMattfind your nearest e-waste mountain
Smidge204__jdiez: invent a power supply that captures the user's frustration and you'll have perpetual energy
jdiezSmidge204__: ahahaha
buZzSmidge204__: lol
jdiezI'd be rich
zaubarajdiez: awesome thanks! i guess they work without the fsrs too?
jdiezsure thing zaubara
jdiezzaubara: note, they're designed for 170mm glass dia
zaubaraperfect - thank you :) perfect, got a 170mm glass
MattyMatthowever much I recycle in my lifetime, I'll never save as much energy as was spent sending the England team to Brazil
MattyMattalthough that could be cut in half by leaving them there
Smidge204__Gigantic peizo element behind a "Punch here" label perhaps
add1ct3ddwhats the easiest way to clean out a PLA hot end?
add1ct3ddits not longer easy to push it through by hand
Smidge204__add1ct3dd: Unclog procedure
kthxunclog is and is also
Smidge204__There are no known solvents that will remove PLA without also seriously damaging the hotend itself
add1ct3ddjust a quick q
add1ct3ddsurely i wont be able to pull the filament out the hot end at 60c
recon_lapadd1ct3dd: with PLA you can
add1ct3ddnevermind, managed
shaun413my plants arent getting much bigger
recon_lapshaun413: are they pot bound?
shaun413they are in the trays
recon_lapshaun413: well, if you want them to get bigger you need to put them in bigger pots
shaun413how big of a pot
recon_lapshaun413: sort of up to you. what pots have you got?
shaun413a bunch of maybe 1 ft diamater ones
shaun413I was going to build raised beds
shaun413that never happened
recon_lapshaun413: well, you can use a lot of different pots and go up in steps, you get maximun root ball in the pot of you do that, or you can just go to a big pot and save on buying all those pots.
shaun413i see
shaun413how big a pot is the smallest pot i could use?
shaun413i think i have a poop ton of 4 in pots
MattyMattone size bigger than they've got
shaun413they are in seed starting trays...
MattyMattnew project. cnc planting machine.
robotustraMattyMatt: for wat?
MattyMattfor big graphitti in the local park
recon_lapshaun413: if you want to get an idea about pots, just go to a garden center and look at what they got.
robotustranon profit?
shaun413pots are pricy
robotustraMattyMatt: you mean painting?
MattyMattspring = oh it's a man playing with an RC car. autumn = 50m FUCK!
MattyMattseeds is probably easiest
shaun413recon_lap, can I put them in the 4in for now?
shaun413out of seed trays...
shaun413with regular potting soil?
robotustraMattyMatt: I have better idea
recon_lapshaun413: sure, 4inch is fine. and what else would you put in a pot other than potting soil !!
robotustraCNC controlled paintball gun + many colored balls, to put it to right place
shaun413looks like i have a poop ton of work to do then...
recon_lapshaun413: peat would work too. depending on the plants you might want to add perlite or that other stuff
MattyMattrobosutra, nvidia proved that 256 guns is better :)
recon_lapshaun413: and don't take the soil off the existing roots.
MattyMattor was that AMD?
robotustraI don't know
mutley_ok so is it true the i4 is closed source~?
MattyMatt it was mythbusters
mutley_someone just commented "oh no this is the end of reprap", to which i responded reprap is people driven not person driven
mutley_so, i cut myself shaving today, with scissors lol
reifsnyderbseen codecreations?
kthxcodecreations was last seen in #reprap 2 hours 11 min ago saying '_seen_ _r_eifsnyderb_'.
kthx OUCH!
robotustraI want to have as much fun as mythbusters had
robotustraand even more
Chewy64What is funny, is those two guys, don;t like each other that much.
kthxChewy64: 5 hours 42 min ago <malcom2073> tell Chewy64 Your wheels broke the 10EE :)
robotustraChewy64: it doesn't really matter
Chewy64robotustra, No, it doesn't.
robotustrathey have a lot of fun all their crew
Chewy64I watched a thing about just their relationship once. It was really interesteding listening to them talk about it. It's pretty much a proffessional working relationship.
Chewy64Once I found that our, I watched the show and notcied how little they are actually in the same space at the same time.
robotustraIf Jemmy were a bit younger probably they would like each other
robotustrabut he is too much serious
Smidge204__Jamie Hyneman.
Smidge204__aka Mr. Walrus.
robotustraI don't know american names spelling sorry
robotustrais he here?
Smidge204__I doubt it
BlobWiring a dual voltage MK2b heated bed, do I have to connect negative to both pins 2 and 3, or can I just connect to pin 2?
robotustraok, so I haven't warry about bad spelling
Smidge204__Blob: There should be a wiring key printed ont he board
robotustrawhat about printed wheels like this:
robotustrawhat is the best material to print it?
Smidge204__Something flexible
kthxnylon is nylon 6 generates HCN when heated above 400c, and is also and is see HCN
jeffdm_workFlexy, on its side, no top or bottom layers.
BlobSmidge204__: There is. It says 1+, 2-, 3-. I've never seen anyone connect - to pin 3. My question is, do I have to connect to both?
Smidge204__I think so
jeffdm_workConnect both for 12V IIRC. Only one for 24V. The chart should say.
Smidge204__Basically the bed is two resistors in series.
jeffdm_work+ to 2, - to 3
hyperairso i'm having this weird issue where my PLA keeps clicking when printing infill, but fixes itself when printing the perimeter
hyperairoh, and if i print a tiny gear with lots of retractions, it works!
hyperairbut i can't print the goddamned cube
zimirkenisnt that great
Blobjeffdm_work: , that would be for 24V. I'm using 12
jeffdm_workOh, sorry.
jeffdm_workI misunderstood.
jeffdm_workWire 2 and 3 to -
Smidge204__For 24V you're using the two resistive elments in series. With 12V you're doing it in parallel.
Smidge204__So you need both 2 and 3
BlobOK. thanks.
BlobMy boatrd has solder pads on both sides. Does it matter which I use?
Smidge204__Depends on how you plan to moutn the board
jeffdm_workAre the holes in them plated through?
Smidge204__Solder everything to the side that will not be in your way I guess
BlobThere is a thru hole in them, yes
jeffdm_workIs that hole plated through?
jeffdm_workBare fiberglass or shiny all the way through?
BlobHow would I check?
Smidge204__Look at it
jeffdm_workOr use a multimeter and check continuity of the same pad between both sides of the board.
BlobShiny, so I guess plated through
Smidge204__That would only tell you if they're connected at all
Smidge204__Blob: Yup.
jeffdm_workThen solder whichever side works best for you.
zaubarabtw, im printing a different stl now (jdiez' fsrtabs, ty :), also reduced the infill quite a bit - and no more random stops mid print. i guess it could be the arduino being to slow for 1/32 stepping and so many moves...
Blobbut that is a small amount of surface to carry a relatively high voltage
bill2or3if you use the top, make sure it's not putting a lump that'll keep your glass from laying flat.
Blobbill2or3: no problem there. The glass is out of the way already because of the bolt head.
BlobI see that ORD Solutions finished their contest to name their printer. They went with Rova3d.
BubbleRepseen lulzbotbam*
kthxlulzbotbam was last seen in #reprap 1 month 1 day ago saying '_has_ _anyone_ _tried_ _using_ _fire_ _cement_ _to_ _glue_ _the_ _thermistor_ _into_ _the_ _heater_ _block_?'.
TuimCheck it out, I have my printer almost up and running again
TuimI am using parts from mutley_ :)
mutley_lol i thought you meant you were downloading a movie to watch, like star wars or something
mutley_not a movie of the printer lol
TuimI havent actually tightened all the parts down yet
mutley_ahh a tip
robotustrais it bossible to print in gelatin?
TuimBut I hope smooth sailing from here
mutley_see where the z axis isolators are, and how they can rotate a little bit
TuimYeah, I havent put in the grub screws yet
mutley_fuck where is my head i thought i was in pm lol
mutley_lol ok well anyway where the z isolators are, pop a cable tie onto the rod either siide to it doesnt rotate as much
TuimWill do!
TuimNot sure if the grub screws are even needed
mutley_i have a modified part on the way that is not allowed to rotate as much, but this rotation if aloowed, can cause some banding, so pop the ties onto the rod, pull the tight, snip them off, then push them close onto the isolator and all will be good
mutley_no grubbies can probbaly be left out but there fir safekeeps just in case
tjb1seen lukan*
kthxLukan-A was last seen in #reprap 3 days 16 hours ago saying '_put_ _it_ _in_ _hastebin_ _brady2600_'.
kthxLukan was last seen in #reprap 4 days 15 hours ago saying '_This_ _is_ _an_ _unrealistic_ _standard_ : _http_://_i_._huffpost_._com_/_gen_/_489811_/_thumbs_/_r_-_IOANA_-_SPANGENBERG_-_large570_._jpg_'.
kthxLukan-M was last seen in #reprap 2 weeks 5 days ago saying '_night_ _all_'.
adam_hey, are reprapsource a reputable company?
BubbleRepyes and if you have problems you can hit jglauche here, he is the owner
mutley_adam_: you can even use bubblereps happy slappy trout to hit hit jglauche if your not happy
mutley_kettle calls
robotustragood tactic - kick owner's ass :)
mutley_but in the meantime
MattyMattrobotustra, I'd guess yes to gelatin, or gelatin+sugar mix (for water soluble support) but if it sticks needs experimentation
mutley_i offer some actuator gears for sale, b mw m power throttle actuators, and i explicitly state in the ad if your not a mechanic and your asking for gears to DIY i take no liability whatsoever
mutley_so i have a muppet who follows not one instruction given, gets supplied with four sets of gears
mutley_he fucks iut up as he isnt a mechanic
mutley_whack, i get a chargeback out of the blue, paypal balance wiped out, funds access restriucted,
mutley_so i get a new order, and i cant deliver that order as i need to buy tooling to make the parts, its part of the cost, cusommter buys, i get tooling, make the parts and ship
mutley_total fuck up
BubbleRepwasn't me
robotustraMattyMatt: to print paintballs for instance
BubbleRepjuuuust saying
Specmutley_: in other news, i bought some gears from some guy online and i fucked them up, but paypal gave me the money back anyways
Specpaypal definitely is biased towards the buyer
Speci've never been convinced if that's a good thing or not :p
shaun4133should I buy surgery simulator?
shaun4133its 2.50
mutley_shaun4133: go for it, you would print a dong and practiive circumstisions
mutley_would =- could
shaun4133its a gme
shaun4133on steam
RoyOnWheels|MTWmutley_ ....
mutley_you come here often roy?
mutley_i seen you around you know
RoyOnWheels|MTWjust for flex drives
shaun4133i have a flex drive
shaun4133if you want
mutley_RoyOnWheels|MTW: dont be alarmed, he has not one from me
mutley_i had sie hard decisions to make today, and a few more to make tomorrow but you will like tomorrows deciisions, they are bagged packed labelled sealed
mutley_mmm that sounded german
RoyOnWheels|MTWpost em
spretProblems with PLA print!! Just switched back to PLA from ABS. Trying to print a solid rectangle. The extruded bead is very inconsistent. It will print a good, solid bead for about 3 back-and-forth lines, and then print a very broken/shriveling/crumby bead for 2 back-and-forth lines. It then repeats this pattern consistently!
spretI am using head temp: 190, bed temp: 63
RoyOnWheels|MTWACTION is shopping to build a 3kg sumo robot
robotustra3kg only?
shaun4133anyone has steam?
RoyOnWheels|MTWspret you purged all abs out
spretRoyOnWheels|MTW: i believe so!
robotustraI had it for 1 hour once
robotustrabut uninstalled it quickly
RoyOnWheels|MTWsounds like abs plug, run at abs temperature more
RoyOnWheels|MTW1st time having big bots
robotustraRoyOnWheels|MTW: ok, there is a limit
spretI'll try!
RoyOnWheels|MTWrobotustra yeah looking at body that would be about 80% lead
recon_lap1mutley_: you should read some of the stories from other e-bay sellers.
RoyOnWheels|MTWfunctional parts under 1kg
robotustrait's better if it whould be led battery + some plutonium
RoyOnWheels|MTWyeah battery too
RoyOnWheels|MTWbasically add lead as needed
spretWhat is the best PLA temperature settings you guys have found?
RoyOnWheels|MTWtemperature varies by filament
mutley_recon_lap1: i have to say though, credit to paypal, they are quite human facing in may respects, ie they take into account and consider very well the difficulties such ituations can cause an do often privide a workable solution or activate manual over-rides ont heir system so i keep my fingers crossed
mutley_at least this has been my experience so far
recon_lap1spret: there is no best temp, it varies so much from printer to printer and filament to filament. you just have to print some test pieces and see what work best for you .
mutley_at this point in time i need to get some paypal funds transferred into someone elses paypal in the uk that has online banking, so they can withdraw the funds without any hold or delay, and then do a BACs into my account
mutley_but they need to know that they have a functional and instant withdrawal ability into their own account
recon_lap1mutley_: I was referring to dead beat customers who order things and dont want to pay for them
mutley_bloody nightmares
mutley_recon_lap1: yea it does happen, this guy was just incompetant though, to some extent i felt sorry for him but then he repeated the mistakes time and again and ignored every bit of advice
mutley_i even offered to go down and do the job in person, then he suuggested he come up here with the actuators, to which i happily agreed, then he canclled
mutley_i cant do more than that really
Specshaun4133: i hear good things about awesomenauts, which is available for $00.99 presently
shaun4133oh :/
shaun4133I was going to get surgery simulator
Tuimsilly game
TuimNo point really
shaun4133what should I buy
Smidge204__What games DO have points?
TuimGames with stories
TuimBut that is a personal opinion
shaun4133i like sandboc
Smidge204__And what's the point, then?
TuimWhats the point of watching a movie then :]
Smidge204__Good question
Smidge204__to be entertained, perhaps
Smidge204__So if a game is entertaining, perhaps that's the point?
recon_lap1Smidge204 what about that guy who is making 2m a year playing a game !!!
Tuimshaun4133: I liked the Tomb Raider game that is on sale now
Smidge204__To that end, Surgeon Simulator is both challenging and amusing
Smidge204__Totally worth the $2.50 IMHO
TuimSame goes for the hitman game, and dark souls
TuimNether is pretty crap imo
shaun4133dont like tomb raicer
Smidge204__I'm getting a lot of milage out of The Forest
TuimSame here
TuimWell worth the 14 euros
shaun4133Smidge204, i should buy surgery simulator
Smidge204__I'm about 12% done cutting down every tree in the game
shaun4133the forest?
Smidge204__shaun413: I think it's great entertainment value for the price
Smidge204__Surgeon Sim, that is
shaun4133this is a rough one
MattyMattI get enough fun watching pewdiepie play it
Smidge204__If you look at it in terms of hours of entertainment per dollar, SS2013 is a stellar value
TuimThe forest will be even more awesome when they add in coop
shaun4133how many hours?
Smidge204__I've put in maybe an hour on SS2013 (only got it two days ago) and that's already a better deal than any movie theater could offer
Smidge204__But I've only just scratched the surface, too
TuimWhat is ss 2013?
Smidge204__Surgery Simulator 2013
Smidge204__I've got maybe 40 hours on The Forest
shaun4133k i buy it
shaun4133whats the forest?
Smidge204__And about that many on Viscera Cleanup Detail
Smidge204__Which, BTW, is fucking hilarious
TuimI got that with Shadow Warrior
shaun4133the forst looks neat thoo
shaun4133oh im afraid of zombies tho
Smidge204__no zombies
shaun4133i dont play scary games
Smidge204__Not for you, then
shaun4133one time i played amnesia
jeffdm_workViscera Cleanup Detail: where you try to clean up after murders?
shaun4133i passed out
jeffdm_workdid you forget?
Tuimjeffdm_work: Yes
shaun4133no, but i have nightmares from it now
shaun4133so i dont play tose games anymore
Smidge204__jeffdm_work: You know how classic FPS games have you running through hallways blowing up aliens? VCD has you cleaning up after that guy
shaun4133oh btw
shaun4133ftl is fun
Smidge204__Picking up bullet casings and wiping blood off the ceilings
shaun4133if anyone wants to be tortured
Smidge204__ANd now I gotta run. Tah~
jeffdm_workIs there a game called Paint Drying?
TuimI have been playing a ton of path of exile
mutley_dont blink or you ll miss it
shaun4133i like prison architect
jeffdm_workWatch Grass Grow
shaun4133playing surgery sim
MattyMattthat was renamed Town Planning for the UK market
shaun4133what was
MattyMattprison architect :)
shaun4133its not a town
MattyMattbut the towns are big prisons
MattyMattyou need a passport to leave the island
MattyMattthe guards give us just enough to stop us rioting often
Bo_DKquick Q.... how do i best calculate my esteps for Z axis? i have 400mm of travel and over just 80mm i notice a 0.5mm error..... a guide would be great?
bill2or3Bo_DK: you calculate it from your threaded-rod-pitch and stepper drivers and stepper motors...
bill2or3you probably have 200 step motors, and 16x microstepping drivers....
bill2or3which means 3200 steps per turn of the threaded rod.
bill2or3so you need to know how far one turn moves the Z.
bill2or3and divide.
Bo_DKyeah found that guide but have to read and understand.... what leed me to this was i saw the nozzle just a tad to high.... and layers did not stick
Bo_DK// NEMA 17 with standard pitch M8 threaded rod:
Bo_DK(200 * 16) / 1.25 = 2560
Bo_DKme look what i entered
Bo_DKramps 1.4 with doooh... need to lookup what steppers
bill2or3Bo_DK: I usually just put the equation there, to remind myself how that number is derived.
Bo_DKyep... i removed that from marlin.... stupid now i see
kthxcalculator is Sweet and hip version 3 is now online!! an and is also
bill2or32580 vs 2560 is barely anything, I bet your problem is elsewhere (but fix that, too)
bill2or3have you physically measured your filament diameter?
bill2or3what's it's diameter?
Bo_DKbut ....
bill2or3describe to me how you measured it.
Bo_DKi could see much free air under the nozzle
Bo_DKwith calipers....
bill2or3that's pretty fat.
bill2or3most is in the 2.8-2.9 range.
Bo_DKi know... messured it several places
Bo_DKbut i just wondered why i see air (pretty much in fact) between nozzle and object
bill2or3the best is several places, twice at 90deg angles in each spot, and average the results.
bill2or3Bo_DK: move your nozzle down so it's touching the bed, then click "Z+10" five times, and measure how high it moved.
bill2or3you dont' have to measure at the nozzle itself, it can be anywhere convenient on the carriage.
Bo_DKjust did that.... it does not move what i tell it to
bill2or3how far did you tell it,and how far did it move?
Bo_DK0.5mm to much over 80mm
Bo_DKtold it to move 80mm
Bo_DKand it moved 80.5
Bo_DKand it was adding up for each 10mm i told it to move
Bo_DKmight try to go full lenght
Bo_DKie home and tell it to move the full 400mm
bill2or3so like the first +10 moved to 10mm, and the second +10 moved to 30mm?
Bo_DKehh? no i started with telling it to move 10mm and it moved almost spot on... then told it to move another 10mm... at it moved a tad more than it should
Bo_DKwhen i clicked for the 8th time it was 0.5mm off
Bo_DKie it got worse for each time i told it to move 10mm
bill2or3that's probably the 2560 vs 2580 z-steps difference. Did you reflash with the correct z-steps yet?
Bo_DKnow lets try 20cm/200mm in one go and see if it does move
Bo_DKnope i just discovered the difference...
Bo_DKso homed it.... i have a mendel90 with top z endstop... told it to move 100mm... it moved 101mm
Bo_DKtime to correct and reflash
mastag25how do you measure the distance it went
bill2or3with a ruler.
mastag25just seems like it would be hard
bill2or3yeah, it is. that's why you use a longer distance, not just 10mm
bill2or3calipers are better than a ruler, fwiw.
Bo_DKhehe... will use that when ruler says spot on
mastag25did you just mark it somewhere at 100mm
bill2or3if you calculate it right, it'll be right.
recon_lap1mastag25: the 100mm measurement just gets you in the ball park, fine tuning follows
mastag25i guess its something ill learn when i have to do it
Bo_DKmastag25: pretty much yes... homed, mark on rod... told it to move 100mm
Bo_DKreflash and same again
Bo_DKwhen ruler says spot on i use calipers
Bo_DKand do the same again
bill2or3Bo_DK: does a single move to Z+80mm put it in the same place as 8 10mm moves?
Bo_DKonce it moves correct i will do the full 400mm
nottakumasatoDo you guys have any method for preventing plastic leakage between nozzle and heat barrel in heaterblock?
mastag25that never happened to me
mastag25it shouldnt be liquified that much to push through i wouldnt think
bill2or3 it shouldn't leak there.
bill2or3the seal should be ... better.
nottakumasatoThe faces of the nozzle and heat barrel do not perfectly match, thus plastic leakes
bill2or3what extruder?
Bo_DK....... i had that once...
Bo_DKwith a jhead
nottakumasatogregs wade and e3d
mastag25did you tighten it good?
nottakumasatobut made it myself
nottakumasatoas hard as I could
Bo_DKused PTFE tabe before assemble and never got a leak again
nottakumasatodo you think ptfe tape might work?
nottakumasatooh ok
Bo_DKyou have to apply it in right direction...
nottakumasatoMy next question was, any method for removing burnt plastic from threads?
bill2or3nottakumasato: if it makes you feel any better, my "made it myself" hotend leaked the same way.
Bo_DKapply is so that when assemble it will not take off the tape but tighten it
bill2or3heat & wire brush.
nottakumasatobill2or3: it did :)
bill2or3yeah, the interface between the barrel and the inside of the nozzle wasn't flat enough to made solidly and make a good seal.
nottakumasatoso if the nozzle tightens clockwise, should I apply ptfe tape counter clockwise?
Bo_DKwhat i do is take the 2 parts and assemble and note what direction i turn the parts.... then i apply the tape in same direction
mastag25ptfe and teflon tape are the same thing arent they
nottakumasatomastag25: yep
bill2or3yes, they are.
curiousexcept one is trademarked
Bo_DKso holding firm the nozze and rotate the barrel clockwise to put on... apply tape clockwise too
mastag25like plumbing
bill2or3note: there's tape for water lines(thin, blue spool) and tape for gas lines(thick, yellow spool). maybe the yellow would be better?
mastag25what about the white
nottakumasatoBo_DK: OK got it, thanks
Bo_DKi use the one for waterline.... tinh as hell
Bo_DKthe plumbers call it virgin tape.... go figure why
Bo_DKi can explain if need be
nottakumasatoBo_DK: please do
Bo_DKthin as the "membrane" on a virgin :-D
nottakumasatothought it would be much more awkward
nottakumasatonice explanation
Bo_DKi'm always carefull with dirty words etc
MattyMattand wrapped over the end of a 2" water pipe, makes an acceptable substitute while on the job
Bo_DKnever know how people take it
bill2or3stay classy MattyMatt
nottakumasatoBo_DK: nice technique but wont produce funny stories
Bo_DKyeah but you had to ask all girls passing if they are virgins.... faster to have the tape on hand
MattyMattI'm in a class of my own, until those other boys set fire to that dog
mutley_sheeeit nearly 3.5k views on the flex post, wow
mutley_whos setting fire to a dog? set fire to them
MattyMattI did, and then I was sent to a school with no classes at all
MattyMattmeh. it's futile to attempt The Aristocrats joke in a public channel
MattyMattif it gets too good, I WILL end up in trouble
MattyMatthi tew_
MattyMattACTION welcomebot
RoyOnWheels|MTWmutley_ reprap forum post
mutley_RoyOnWheels|MTW: which one?
RoyOnWheels|MTWmutley_ what has 3.5k
mutley_ah yes, nearly 3.5 views, the flex post
mutley_so 3 plus someone who nearly looked at it ;p
CabzxsI have been experiencing some problems with the thermistors, the reading seems not to change, any ideas as to why?
bill2or3I thought about looking, maybe I am the 1/2
bill2or3Cabzxs: you're not reading the pin you think you are?
Computer_BarfRoyOnWheels: my leadscrews on my z axis have a tendency to fall out of the bearings on my vertices on my mendelmax 1.5 , I have z wobble that i presume to be because of this. Do you have any vertices you can recommend that perhaps hold the bearings lower, or perhaps some sort of anti z wobble mechanism?
CabzxsYou mean that I have set the software wrong
bill2or3Cabzxs: exactly. see if the reading changes when you unplug the themistor...
bill2or3z-isolators ?
CabzxsGonna try it when I get home tonight. Another ideas?
bill2or3Cabzxs: what is the reading? (the one that doesn't change)
Computer_Barfbill2or3: please keep in mind the z isolators need to be mendelmax 1.5 compatable
RoyOnWheels|MTWComputer_Barf wheres the bearing
Computer_Barfon the top
bill2or3I have a MM1.0... are the 1.5 x-ends much different?
RoyOnWheels|MTWbottom z motor, i would loose the bearings
RoyOnWheels|MTWbill2or3 the x ends were never speced
RoyOnWheels|MTWbasically user decides
Computer_Barflose or loosen? don't understand
RoyOnWheels|MTWget rid of
kthxz-isolator is and is also a great name for a B-rate 80's sci-fi thriller movie featuring killer robots.
bill2or3yes, that's the one.
CabzxsThe readings that don't change are 50 an80d
ptlanyone care to help? My RUMBA board it not turning on the second FAN (FAN1) [command: M42 P8 S255] - picture of the board:
Computer_BarfOk so I remove the bearings, and then print the z-isolator?
Computer_Barfthe picture here, idk if this fits what I have
brentrumutley_: ?
Computer_Barfthe leadscrew on mine goes all the way down to the motor, plus the bottom of my x axis ends have the brass bushing
brentrumutley_: did you just refund me?
brentrukthx tell mutley* did you just refund me? -brent
kthxbrentru: I'll pass that on when mutley* is around.
brentrukthx tell mutley did you just refund me? -brent
kthxbrentru: I'll pass that on when mutley is around.
RoyOnWheels|MTWComputer_Barf or just try printing without bearings
brentrukthx tell mutley_ did you just refund me? -brent
kthxbrentru: I'll pass that on when mutley_ is around.
mutley_brentru: some yes i did, more to follow but wanted you to see i hadnt forgotten, and that i had it i thought i had better do it
kthxmutley_: 16 sec ago <brentru> tell mutley* did you just refund me? -brent
kthxmutley_: 1 sec ago <brentru> tell mutley_ did you just refund me? -brent
brentrumutley_: thank you for your honesty
mutley_yes i did just refund some
mutley_but not all
brentruThat's fine. Thank you, regardless.
mutley_i had what i had, you is well overdue
mutley_so yes i did...and i think its me to be thanking you for the patience
brentruACTION forgot about it, completely
Bo_DKbill2or3: btw... got the z travel sorted.... with calipers... now i'm just sorting out where Z 0 is... with top mounted end stop its done by specing max travel... and fine tuning that number
bill2or3Bo_Dk: top -endstop? you're a witch!
bill2or3(unless it's a delta...)
Bo_DKits not... its a mendel90
Bo_DKits actually not that stupid... Z just needs to be set once and for all... with level bed etc... and steps pr mm set too
MattyMatta belt drive Z might be OK, as it seems to work fine on deltas
MattyMattworst case scenario is you'll need a counterweight
bill2or3that's a pretty bad worst-case, doubling your inertia..
MattyMattwho cares? Z hardly moves while printing
MattyMattunlike a delta, where they are all defying gravity all the time
IsaaXhello, does anyone know of online stores that carry hardware for mini kossels and also accept bitcoin?
IsaaXin the US
mutley_ACTION doesnt forget
Bo_DKi think the accept bitcoin is the hardest part....
Bo_DKnot a very stable currency and that is what most stores are after
mastag25IsaaX didnt you just order a mm2
IsaaXmastag25 nah man i have an FM
IsaaXwhich will be printing my kossel ;)
daveee123i was wondering if the duet electronics can work with repetier firmware
MattyMattwill paypal take bitcoin?
Bo_DKwith many bitcoins exchanges out of play it becomes less attractive to deal in bitcoins
IsaaXall my printer shit is funded with btc
Bo_DKthou i relly like the idea behind bitcoins....
mastag25my friend owned paypal makes me a poorpal .com
MattyMattI let paypal do all my forex
Bo_DKno one in control as such.....
daveee123also, does anyone know approximately how much weight a nema 17 with 55 of holding torque can move? even assuming acceleration and top speeds are low enough. i am just wondering the limits of how many extruders can be pulled.
Bo_DKbut there should be build in better self control in the system....
Bo_DKand the model behind it should be more open that it is
IsaaXk thanks
mutley_im innocent therefore i am guilty until i can prive i am innocent and i have nothing to fear since i can prive i am innocent
mutley_the issue is prooving your innocence to potential incompetance or ignorance
mutley_daveee123: it could pull a 40ton truck if geared right and moved slowly enugh
daveee123mutley_: well, without any gearing. and being driven by an allegro 4988
mutley_ok that ight only be a 7.5tonne truck with super pumped up tyres and a downhill gradient
daveee123mutley_: why stop at 40 tons, lets move the planet, the universe, bend space, time
MattyMattI'd prefer btc if the work involved wasn't worthless. if it was foldedproteincoins or wholeconstellationscheckedforETcoins I'd see the point
daveee123mutley_: haha, ok, well how about three non-bowden extruders?
daveee123mutley_: would that move at a reasonable print speed?
MattyMattgalactic dollars. every time you discover a new planet, you get a token of ownership you can spend
MattyMattside effect, Herschel II would fund itself
MattyMattand telescope companies in general would thrive
mutley_not sure about three non bowden extruders but it would certainly move three flex extruders
mutley_bmp chiga wowow
mutley_if i could ship the to ya
mutley_ACTION runs at wet trout face first
RoyOnWheels|MTWwhat's with trout!
BubbleRephe is traumatized by my slaps
RoyOnWheels|MTWblddk has a size 45 trout he attacks with
mutley_scarred for life
tomstokesdaveee123: A motor with 55 N. cm. of holding torque can hold 55 N of force on the end of a 1 cm lever arm attached to the shaft. On Earth, 1N corresponds to a weight of about 102 grams.
tomstokesBut that's just the holding torque. You can't actually move anything with that torque.
daveee123tomstokes: hmmm...i am trying to drive three standard wade's extruders. would that be possible with just one motor? should i use a small pulley or a lead screw?(with really steep threads)
bill2or3that implies that you'd have no per-extruder adjustments.. I hope your filament is really-really consistent.
tomstokesYou're trying to use one motor for three separate extruders?
bill2or3and your hobbed bolts, too.
tomstokesAt the same time?
jdiezif you were stranded on an island
jdiezwith a bunch of household electornics
jdiezand your life depended on finding two 470 ohm resistors
jdiezwhere would you look
jdiezpreferrably through-hole
shaun4133I would look in a radio
tomstokesI would find a pencil
Specjdiez: i'd look in the drawer with the spare resistors :p
tomstokesAnd wittle it down to the graphite
jdiezSpec: no luck :P
shaun4133variable resistors
shaun4133use those
tomstokesAnd then attach wires at two points on the graphite that corresponded to 470 Ohms.
jdiezhmmmmmmmmmmm tomstokes
tomstokesDisclaimer: Don't actually do that.
jdiezyou get 10 internet points for creative answer
Spectomstokes: why not?
jdiezit'd probably have to be a long lead of graphite
Specerr, doesn't diameter matter?
Speclarger diameter = less resistance, right?
BubbleRepget 4 1kOhm and put each two in parallel, that gives you 500ohm should be close enough
bill2or3larger == more wattage
jdiezBubbleRep: unfortunately close enough is not good enough in this circuit
jdiezI want the 470ohms to make 235 ohms
jdiezI have a 220ohm resistor which is too low
jdiezthis rsistor will be part of the voltage feedback network of a voltage regulator
Specshaun4133: have you started your rent-an-arduino service yet?
BubbleRepso you would need those with <5% tollerance
jdiez230 works too
jdiezbut 220 produces too much voltage for comfort
BubbleRepno small resistors available?
Chewy64Spec: Shaun is a wantrepreneur. Don't hold your breath.
shaun4133Spec, what?
BubbleRepto put them in series
shaun4133that was never a such thing
jdiezI have 10k resistors
jdiezbut that's about it
shaun4133use those
shaun4133make 500k resistors with them
shaun4133use that
A2__daveee123: size the step motor with a 100% torque safety factor
jdiezI also have a 620ohm
Specshaun4133: i thought you were gonna ship out arduino units on a subscription based service every month, and then the person was gonna return them you ship a new one.
Specyou make money by the fact that it sounds like a neat idea, but people are lazy and never return them and you charge them for it. :p
BubbleRephow many 10k ohm do you have? :D
shaun4133arduino projects
jdieza bunch BubbleRep
daveee123tomstokes: it is one motor to move a stack of three extruders. so there will be three motors to move the the three extruders in the x direction
BubbleRep26 10ks + the 620 in parallal makes 237 ohm
jdiezsoftware idea: you tell an app the resistors that you have and the value you want and gives you the best answer
jdiezthat shit is probably np complete+
MattyMattbest answer, multiturn pot
robotustra_Is special cleaning of hot end needed after finishing print with ABS?
MattyMattwith a vernier
robotustra_MattyMatt: is it to me?
mastag25what's the purpose of the stepper motor drivers, for people using straight arduino boards?
Computer_Barfmastag25: arduino only outputs so much voltage and amperage
Computer_Barfnot enough to power the motors
MattyMattno to jdiez, but I noticed shaun beat me to that suggestion :)
Computer_Barfnot to mention, stepper motors work in a particular way, but i dont particularly understand that stuff.
Computer_Barfbut short answer, the arduino pin would burn itself out trying to power a stepper.
jdiezi don't think I have a pot that can go as low as 220
mutley_ben n jerry in da houoise
MattyMattyellow purple brown
mutley_banana rasberry chocolate yumyumpf
Computer_BarfThat is how it typically is with arduinos. You use it to trigger other things that control larger amounts of voltage/amperage. Usually involving either solid state relays, or transistors, or similar such things. It would be cool if someone mentioned how ramps goes about it.
Computer_Barfi can understand banana chocolate
MattyMattpistachio, grape, chocolate
Computer_Barfi can understand raspberry chocolate
mutley_pistachio is green tho
Computer_Barfbut i don't know if i would put so many fruits in my chocolate
Computer_Barfchocolate demand has spiked lately
mutley_chocolate with any dark fruit, phwoar
MattyMatt yay, yt has ALL my childhood memories :)
MattyMattI wonder if they have any vid of my Nanna :(
Computer_Barfprices on the beans themselves have risen around 30 percent, and the cocoa butter around 70 percent. Not insignificant fate for our chocolate bars.
mutley_awww nanna
Computer_BarfI suppose its good for third world nations that produce cocoa trees though. It seems mostly because of increases in international demand
MattyMattboth of em
MattyMattall of em, if you count the stepnannas
robotustra_so, I didn't do do I need to clean hotend?
robotustra_after finishing printing?
Computer_BarfI don't know about you guys but I know I don't want a 70 percent more expensive chocolate bar.
robotustra_so, I didn't got do I need to clean hotend?
mutley_why have i not cloosed ernies ice cream cone
Computer_Barfespecially when you consider the costs of organic clean cocoa already.
MattyMattI didn't know what pistachio was until years after ernie
mutley_i recall marine ices, sunday afternoon Chocolate and pistachio tub
MattyMattbritain had exactly 4 flavours of icecream back then vanilla, strawberry, chocolate and raspeberry ripple
mutley_and two flavours of curry
MattyMattand pork&beef
mutley_dog and cat
daveee123A2__: thanks for that. i am not sure what values to use to calculate the torque or what values to use on the pdf to compare to so that i can include the torque safety factor. if I have 3lbs of mass(3 extruders) to move(assuming no friction?), and the pulley is about 16mm in diameter. Do i need any other information to calculate the maximum acceleration and top speed of this axis?
recon_lap1robotustra_: no, just let the hotend cool down, no need to clean it
daveee123A2__: assuming ideal conditions
mutley_my local curry houose got closed down for selling such delights
mutley_it was open again a week later "under new mangament"
mutley_dee dar tandoori house
MattyMattoh yeah, neopolitan, which was the other 3 in the same tub. exotic
mutley_er cat curry please four popodoms and mango chutney prease
MattyMattand a peshwari naan
mutley_come to think of itm, i wonder if it was halal cat
mutley_oh yea and the peshwari naan, or marzipan bread
MattyMattnaan was too exotic for the 1970s. I think we were still on the poppadoms back then
MattyMattwartime rations
MattyMattsausages 90% sawdust, and we were proud of it
MattyMattit's the sizzle they were selling. CMOT Dibbler's specials
mutley_it was a funny ol place backk then
A2__daveee123: If you have 31 lbf then you need a stepper that can move 62 lbf. acceleration and speed of a stepper are pretty much set by the V, and A, and the driver you use. AFAIK, I'm still learning about this my self.
mutley_beat bobbies getting smashed in during riots, prejudice and racism rife, baked beans ever so popular, ford cortinas and northern soul
mutley_oh mods and rockers at birhgton kicking off annually too
daveee123A2__: thanks!
MattyMattthat had stopped by the 70s hadn't it? it was all glam rock and picket lines by then
MattyMattand raleigh choppers, for the posh kids
MattyMattI had a go on one once, busted my nuts on the gearstick
mutley_i bunny hopped 7 bricks on a ...wait for it... a grifter
mutley_i still see the odd chopper and think, mmmm thats a serious health hazard,
mutley_wheelies just a tiny bit too easy
mutley_wowo mamory lane
Computer_Barfstop guys im gonna get flackbacks from nam
mutley_Mash Rulez
mutley_and hill street blues
MattyMattthat was korea
MattyMattbut aired during nam, I guess
mutley_Korea? huh
Computer_BarfIts funny how we always refer to these things
Computer_Barfthe vietnam war
Computer_Barfthe korean war
Computer_Barfthe iraq conflict
tew_is there some peopl with a smartrap here ?
Computer_Barfwe don't say, The American invasion of Vietnam.
Chewy64On no, of course not.
Chewy64Becasue it wasn't an invasion, in the technical sense at least....
Chewy64More accurately "The failed American Invasion of X"
Computer_BarfLol im sorry when you fake being attacked, and then you use that as a justification to send more and more people there on a false pretext.. I kinda see that as invasive.
robotustra_How much time I should give to cool down before remove it from table?
robotustra_remove print*
mastag25i remove my abs prints immediately after printing
mastag25PLA i would wait a few minutes though
Computer_Barfi take my plate off and put it in the freezer
Computer_Barfin the freezer, if your adhesion is to hair spray , or glue stick or pva glue, and its being stubborn , the freezer is great.
Computer_Barfthe expansion / contraction causes the surface to shift
airkingDoes RAMPS need an 11 amp AND a 5 amp connection?
kthxhelp is and is also searchable via google by adding "" to your search term(s)
airkingI'm wiring my ramps
Computer_Barfyes I believe so
airkingI don't have an ATX power supply
airkingI have one that someone recommended
airkingit's 12@20amps
Computer_Barfi mean, i dont recall back when i set it up , but both of those parts of the green thing have wires leading to them.
airkingIs there anyone here who can clarify?
Computer_BarfSomeone will eventually chime in
robotustra_12*20 = 240 W
robotustra_fock, filament has broke, skipped one layer
Computer_Barfit would be cool if computer vision could somehow watch the print, and detect exactly when something fails, and know how to resume it.
tjb11hp__, what is sla channel?
RoyOnWheels|MTWstereo lithography
A2__just feed the CV a pdf of each slice to compare against your layer.
airkingtjb11: The power supply I have has a consistent 20amps across all lines, do I just plug that into both the 5amp and 11amp sections?
airkingit's 12 volts
tjb11thanks RoyOnWheels|MTW
airkingCan I just put 20amps to both my 5amp and 11 amp terminals on my RAMPS?
MattyMattairking, yes
recon_lap1airking: sure can, the 5 and 11 is just how much they draw
mastag25amps are just current
airkingboth are 12 volts?
mastag25amount of current can be drawn
mastag25as long as they are the same voltage it's no big deal
MattyMattcurrent tends to be drawn rather than put
MattyMatt^what they said
RoyOnWheels|MTW11a just an isolated bed circuit airking
airkingBoth of them are 12 volts, right?
MattyMattif you short them together, then they will be the same voltage, whatever they want to be :)
recon_lap1airking: what you want to check is that the wires you use can handle the current that will be drawn
airkingI'm using wires rated for 120
recon_lap1copper rods?
MattyMatt120amps? how thick are they?
RoyOnWheels|MTWwhat awg?
iiveairking: 20 amps must the the maximum load.
recon_lap1airking: I think you might be mistaken about the 120amps
MattyMattactually 16 is the most that can be drawn before the fuses go
iivepower supply usually hold constant voltage, so the current changes depending on the consumption of power.
airkingThat explains why it was reading at 0 amps
airkingwhen I had my voltmeter...
daveee123anyone have any experience with an H-belt/corexy configuration? how accurate is it compared to a standard cartesian?
mastag25you have to run the object in line
robotustra_voltmeter reads voltage
recon_lap1airking: volts are not amps
mastag25and most multimeters cant measure high amps
robotustra_not amperage
mastag25its like 10a fused or something
BubbaP_hello, has anyone ever seen endstops trigger /dev/ttyACM0 to disappear all of a sudden?
BubbaP_It comes back right away as /dev/ttyACM1
RoyOnWheels|MTWbubbaP it wired wrong resetting board?
RoyOnWheels|MTWendstop wiring
recon_lap1BubbaP_ they can if they connected to the wrong pins
daveee123BubbaP_: that happens when i pull out the usb and plug it back in. but never from an endstop
RoyOnWheels|MTWBubbaP_ ground to sig
BubbaP_The endstops are connected to X- Y- and Z-
RoyOnWheels|MTWmechanical endstop
BubbaP_As soon as an endstop is triggered, pronterface says it lost the serial connection
BubbaP_its very weird
RoyOnWheels|MTWwhat pins of the 3 enstop pins?
RoyOnWheels|MTWwire wrong set it'll crash
recon_lap1BubbaP_ it's not weird if you got the endstop connected to the wrong pins
BubbaP_hmm I don't know - it's a ramps board connected to an arduino mega
kthxramps is the Reprap Arduino Pololu Electronics Platform:
RoyOnWheels|MTWyeah we know
BubbaP_yep RAMS1.4
RoyOnWheels|MTWhow is endstop attached
recon_lap1BubbaP_ this one , sry
tjb1"what is endstop"
RoyOnWheels|MTWyou have ground signal and 5v
RoyOnWheels|MTW5v to signal crashes everything
BubbaP_its wired to normally open pins and it is connected to the x min, y min and zmin on the ramps board
tjb1take picture of your ramps board
recon_lap1BubbaP_ have you looked at ?
RoyOnWheels|MTWBubbaP_ on what ramps pins
BubbaP_yep, I haven't even hooked up any 12V stuff, I'm just checking sensors
BubbaP_let me see if I can take a pic of the board wiring
ccecilIf the endstop is connected backwards it shorts the 5v to gnd
ccecilwhich shuts off the MCU
ccecildepending on how the endstop is wired it could be when the endstop is triggered...or just plugged in...also a backwards stepper driver will shut things off too
ccecilor a defective stepper driver can also do it
Ruprectany electronics gurus about?
BubbaP_shit I just figured it out - there's 3 pins for the end stops on the ramps board and I used the bottom 2 pins instead of the top 2 pins
BubbaP_as soon as I connected them to the top 2 it worked ok
RoyOnWheels|MTWyeah figured that was it
airkingJust setup my printer, and my bed is not heating
airkingit should be heating to 100C
airkingand it's still at room temp
ccecilBubbaP_: were shorting the 5v line to gnd
airkingAny help?
kthxm105 is M105: Get Extruder Temperature, Request the temperature of the current extruder and the build base in degrees Celsius.
kthxm104 is Set extruder temperature. Example M104 S190
kthxm101 is Deprecated. Regarding filament retraction, see M227, M228, M229.
recon_lap1ok, I forget the one for the headbed thermistor
kthxM140 is set bed temperature. Example M140 S10
macegrkthx: M84 is Stop idle hold. Turns off motors when not being used. The S parameter will set the hold timeout. Example: M84 S10 waits ten seconds after an axis move to shut off motors. M84 S0 disables idle hold (motors are always enabled).
kthxmacegr: Okay.
macegrLOL at the example temperature for M140
macegrdoes your heatbed have refrigeration
ccecilmacegr: would never turn on in most cases :)
macegrit might shutdown due to PID setpoint too far from actual
ccecilI think it would set to 10 but never turn the fet on
ccecilpretty sure I have done it before
ccecilwell...that and I set it to 0 all the time to turn it off..I think firmware boots to -10 or something like that
recon_lap1I'm starting to think there is no g-code to get the bed temp
airkingMy heated bed is not heating, can someone help me?
airkingI have an i3V
recon_lap1airking: what temp is your hotbed at now?
ccecilrecon_lap1: to get the bed temp? or to set it?
recon_lap1ccecil: to get it.
ccecilI don't really think it is a gcode related thing...more like a display that runs on the side
ccecilbut what do I know :)
airkingrecon_lap1: 25C
airkingrecon_lap1: Room temperature
macegrrecon_lap1: the M105 command sends both temps back
recon_lap1airking: and what temp is your hotend at?
ccecilmacegr: well...learn something new every day :)
airkingrecon_lap1: Like 220
recon_lap1macegr: so i was right the first time
airkingrecon_lap1: 225
recon_lap1airking: check the wires for the hotbed
macegrrecon_lap1: yesh
airkingrecon_lap1: from RAMPS>bed, or power supply>RAMPS
recon_lap1airking: both
airkingrecon_lap1: I just checked them all, they are secure
macegrDepending on firmware, there can be different setups for the FET outputs. extruder, extruder, bed...extruder, fan, bed, etc
recon_lap1airking: I'm not sure then. maybe you need to enable it in the firmware
airkingrecon_lap1: My arduino and RAMPS came pre-flashed
airkingrecon_lap1: When I set it to preheat, it shows the temp it's trying to preheat to on my LCD screen
recon_lap1airking: does a red light come on , on the ramp board when you set the hotbed temp
airkingI have 2
airkingone flashing
airkingone solid
airkingLED3 is solid
airkingand LED4 is flsahing
airkingThose are the labels on the RAMPS for those LED's
recon_lap1airking: you sort of need to look at the configuration.h file of you firmware
recon_lap1airking: and the hotbed wires are connected to D8 on the ramps board?
airkingrecon_lap1: Yes, the wires are connected to D8
airkingrecon_lap1: I went to eat real quick, sorry for the delay
airkingrecon_lap1: And the thermistor is working, so it can't be shorting out the board somehow
airkingrecon_lap1: any advice?
recon_lap1airking: and you 12 v supply going into the 11amp power input?
airkingrecon_lap1: Yep, it's 12V@20A
ccecilmerkur2k: RoyOnWheels|MTW Where were you guys last night? :)
recon_lap1send the g-code M140 s50
airkingrecon_lap1: Me?
recon_lap1airking: yes, send M140 S50 and watch for leds changing. keep an eye on the extruder temp as well
recon_lap1airking: reset the printer first
airkingrecon_lap1: just did
recon_lap1airking: anything change?
airkingrecon_lap1: hang on, making a gcode file.
recon_lap1airking: are you using pronterface?
airkingrecon_lap1: Nope, just the SD card
airkingrecon_lap1: couldn't get pronterface to connect
recon_lap1airking: then just use the menu and set the hotbed temp to 50c
recon_lap1airking: control->temps->hotbed
airkingrecon_lap1: Just rebooting the printer again
airkingrecon_lap1: Not doing anything
RoyOnWheels|MTWccecil we own no drone
recon_lap1airking: set the hotbed back to 0 , and set the hotend to 50c, just to test that it's working
airkingrecon_lap1: Extruder is heating
airkingLet me try and heat the heatbed, and check the voltage going to it
airkingwith a voltmeter
airkingis that a good idea?
recon_lap1airking: power down the printer, disconnect the d8 wires and measure the resistance of the hotbed
airkingrecon_lap1: errr, I'm not entirely sure how to measure resistance
airkingthat's in ohms right?
recon_lap1airking: correct, ohms
airkingright o
airkingon it not
ccecilRoyOnWheels|MTW: that is what they all say :)
airkingrecon_lap1: 1.1
recon_lap1airking: thats correct. I'm out of easily checked ideas
airkingpower it up anc check voltage?
airkingand then check firmware?
recon_lap1airking: if it was getting voltage it would be getting hot
airkingbut I feel like if I can change it with my lcd screen it's not the firmware
airkingHow do I even go about checking the firmware?
recon_lap1airking: ask your vendor for the source code
airkingrecon_lap1: it's marlin
airkingrecon_lap1: I have a prusa i3V
airkingfrom makerfarm
recon_lap1airking: yes, but how is it set up, you need the source code. I bet they have the source code on their web site
crispy1good evening #reprap
crispy1kthx tell mutley_ Got tracking info, thanks for shipping :D
kthxcrispy1: I'll pass that on when mutley_ is around.
crispy1kthx tell crunch got your shipment
kthxcrispy1: I'll pass that on when crunch is around.
crunchim here
kthxcrunch: 23 sec ago <crispy1> tell crunch got your shipment
RoyOnWheels|MTWtracking !
airkingkthx tell airking Ur a fegat
kthxairking: I'll pass that on when airking is around.
kthxairking: 6 sec ago <airking> tell airking Ur a fegat
airkingrecon_lap1: I found a 91Mb files called, that sound right?
shaun4133i need a portable sirconditioner
recon_lap1airking: open it and look
airkingthere is a bunch of stuff in here
recon_lap1is there a configuration.h
airkingThere is "arduino0022 PrintrBoard" "Marlin Garphical LCD" Marlin RAMPS EPCOS i3 6inch, MARLIN RAMPS EPCOS i38, and then a bunch of .inf and .gcode files
airkingI'm assuming "Marlin-Graphical LCD" is the one we want
airkingIn there there is only one folder "Marlin-Marlin_v1"
airkingand then in "Marlin", I see a configuration.h
airkingand Configuration_adv.h
recon_lap1airking: paste bin configuration.h , maybe we can see if there is anything setup wrong
crispy1so what's everyone printing tonight
airkingabsolutely nothing
crispy1me too
airkingbecause I have a non working heatbed
crispy1well one of my machines is printing something but it's 10 mi away
crispy1we'll see how it came out tomorrow morning
crispy1hi shaun413 back to your oringinal nick I see
recon_lap1airking: that look correct to me. sort of leaves the mosfet and the fuse. unless one of the other things you checked is wrong
shaun4133I dont care crispy1
crispy1shaun413, what's the matter
airkingrecon_lap1: So my ramps is bad
crispy1shaun4133, could be worse, you could be in somalia
shaun4133i wish
shaun4133thye could kill me
recon_lap1airking: not sure, but we looked at the simple things
airkingrecon_lap1: is there anyting I can check/do to confirm/refute that?
Auzzeg'day all
recon_lap1airking: you need someone who know ramps better than me to check
shaun4133bad day Auzze
macegrairking: There are many things that you could have configured wrong
recon_lap1airking: but never hurts to check the wires again
shaun4133like every day
macegrI would recommend starting from the beginning and following all the setup steps for the i3v
Auzzeshaun413 whats the matter?
shaun4133my entire family fricken hates me
shaun4133and im done with the stress
Auzzemove out
shaun4133i cant
shaun4133no money
Auzzeget a loan and move it at the school
airkingSo, tbh, not happy with makerfarm so far
recon_lap1shaun4133 I doubt your family hates you. unless you been doing really bad stuff to them
shaun4133No they do
recon_lap1airking: makerfarm do make good printers.
Auzzeshaun413 only you can change your life (H)
shaun4133they are irrational narcisists
recon_lap1shaun4133, funny thing is thats how i'd describe you, you sure you not projecting?
shaun4133i am not
shaun4133not at all
AuzzeWhat they said no to you again and you are having a pussspit
airkingrecon_lap1: My kit came short 5 m3 nuts, 2 of my plsatic parts were warped, and now my RAMPS may be broken. Also, the parts that he shipped have not yet arrived, USPS says that it's out for delivery, but in a city that's an hour and a half away.
shaun4133you think im a fricken child
airkingrecon_lap1: When I told him about my warped parts and missing nuts, he said he would shit replacements
recon_lap1airking: really? thats bad form.
joem_out of context....
shaun4133you are
airkingkthx tell kthx tell kthx lol
kthxairking: I'll pass that on when kthx is around.
recon_lap1airking: did a led come on when you set the hotbed temp ?
airkingrecon_lap1: Let me check
joem_my 300mm / 12" diameter heated bed gets up to 110 deg c in less than 2 minutes
mattwj2002hi all :)
airkingrecon_lap1: LED3 blinks rapidly and I hear a clicking noise
mattwj2002I have a TV that per the Internet doesn't exist
recon_lap1airking: really, should not do that, might be worth checking for shorts
joem_nice, non-existant tv shows probably still plays new epsides of firefly
recon_lap1airking: I'd power down
crispy1joem_, ouch, too soon
macegrparallel universe TV
Auzzehey mattwj2002
mattwj2002Auzze my friend
airkingrecon_lap1: the clicking is not coming from RAMPS
mattwj2002I have a thought of a design
macegrIRC is a portal to alternate universes, netsplits are when they have to route around a universe getting destroyed
airkingrecon_lap1: It's from the extruder fan, I think
joem_my name is joss
mattwj2002it is so simple but so hard to draw in 3D
joem_joss is short for joseph
recon_lap1airking: take a picture of your ramps and upload it, sounds like you got you fan wired to your hotbed
airkingrecon, doubt it
airkingI've triple and quadruple checked my wiring
Eldinassuming I don't have Kapton tape, what are people's opinions on the best way to get ABS to adhere to the bed?
pwillardlet us check
recon_lap1airking: like the way you checked your endstops?
mattwj2002maybe I should look at thingiverse before I spend too much time on it
Auzzemattwj2002 you should
recon_lap1anyway, upload that picture
airkingrecon_lap1: My endstops work fine?
Auzzeairking whats the problem??
mattwj2002Auzze: do you have f connectors on TVs in Australia?
mattwj2002or do you guys have more the British style?
recon_lap1airking: sry, confusing you with BubbaP_
AuzzeI think we use a bnc push on type
mattwj2002oh okay
airkingrecon_lap1: uploading picture now. The quality is going to be pretty bad though
recon_lap1Auzze: airking hotbed is not heating. I'm thinking his fan is wired to the hotbed connections
reifsnyderbseen philc?
kthxPhilC was last seen in #reprap 1 week 2 days ago saying '_especially_ _bad_ _considering_ _that_ _the_ _z_-_axis_ _is_ _a_ _screw_ _system_'.
reifsnyderbseen nobody?
kthxSorry, I haven't seen nobody.
reifsnyderbseen myself?
kthxmyself was last seen in #reprap 8 months 1 week ago saying '_Split_ _it_ _up_ _so_ _the_ _bed_ _heater_, _the_ _hotend_ _heater_, _and_ _the_ _electronics_, _can_ _all_ _run_ _from_ _separate_ _supplies_ _if_ _needed_. _make_ _it_ _easy_ _to_ _combine_ _them_ _if_ _you_ _have_ _a_ _single_ _beefy_ _supply_, _but_ _also_ _easy_ _to_ _run_ _each_ _from_ _a_ _separate_ _supply_ _if_ _that_'_s_ _what_'_s_ _handy_.'.
kthx OUCH!
Auzzerecon_lap1 does he have the thinistor connected??
airkingrecon_lap1: and
recon_lap1Auzze: yep, and reporting the correct temp, his hotend is working too
shaun4133hello reid
shaun4133hows your perfect life?
Auzzehas he got it connected to the corect place
mattwj2002okay guys
mattwj2002so this is an F connector
recon_lap1airking: what type of fan have you connected?
mattwj2002I just want something I can put over this connector to make it easier to thread on :)
Auzzeairking plug the hetbed into the hotend and test..
airkingrecon_lap1: A little small one, it's for the hotend
Auzzeon the board
airkingIt's a j-head
recon_lap1airking: does it come on when you heat the hotend?
airkinghang on
airkingrecon_lap1: No
shaun4133i said hello reifsnyderb
shaun4133its polite to say hello back
airkingThere is a setting called "PreHeat ABS", it comes on when I use that
airkingIt sets the extruder to 225 and the bed to 100
airkingbut the bed doesn't heat so :/
recon_lap1airking: reset the printer, disconnect the fan, try head the bed again, see if that led blinks , power down
recon_lap1try heat*
recon_lap1airking: report back
airkingrecon_lap1: LED3 blinks
Jay_hi everyone
Jay_hows it goin
mattwj2002hey Jay_
mattwj2002I am going to try something scary
Jay_clearin out a jam
mattwj2002I am going to design something O.o
Jay_3rd on since yesterday
Jay_keeps jammin while trying to print a set of 4 bar clamps for a prusa i3 i am planning to build
AuzzeJay_ you have a fan on the top of you hotend
airkingrecon_lap1: Colin responded with "I would try to upload the firmware that is on page 31 of the i3v guide and see if that fixes the heat bed issue. I had one earlier today where for some reason the firmware had set the heat bed to d9 which is incapable of powering the heat bed. Uploading the firmware again will move it back to d8 which can power the heat bed."
Jay_its a little above and blowing down on it from an angle its the simple makers model 2014
airkingrecon_lap1: Where do I go from here?
recon_lap1airking: ok, upload the firmware
airkingrecon_lap1: errr, how?
mattwj2002now I just need to figure out how to draw a hexagon
recon_lap1airking: download arduino IDE , unzip that firmware on page 31 , compile and upload it to the ramps
Jay_the fan is there but the shroud design that they have linked for it will not work so its just the open fan
airkingrecon_lap1: how do I use the arduino IDE, I've never done it before
reifsnyderbseen crunch?
kthxcrunch was last seen in #smoothieware 45 min 10 sec ago saying '_fart_'.
kthxfreecad is a FOSS CAD program largely written in and extensible with Python. It has a full GUI, plus the ability to program your models in full object-oriented code. FreeCAD Scripting Tutorial is:
mattwj2002does anyone like freecad?
Jay_on the plus side im gettin better at fixin the jams lol
mattwj2002Jay_ is it fixed?
mattwj2002sorry kind of fading in and out
recon_lap1Jay_: what hotend?
Jay_i havent put the hot end back in yet but i heated it up enough to pull the jam free with a pair of needle nose
airkingrecon_lap1: So I followed those instrcutions, and the compiler threw some errors
airkinghow can I pastebin them?
recon_lap1airking: ctrl-c should work
reifsnyderbJay_: Are you using a J-Head and trying to print with pla?
airkingrecon_lap1: It did not
mattwj2002what license do you guys like?
Jay_its whatever the stock hot end from printrbot
airkingrecon_lap1: Had to hit it twice, here
AuzzeDesignSpark Mechanical?
Auzzemattwj2002 try DesignSpark Mechanical 1.0 easy to learn and sinply to understand
reifsnyderbJay_: Maybe the ubis? Printing with PLA requires cooling. But, I've never looked at an ubis. (Maybe I should add it to my collection? :-) )
mattwj2002thanks Auzze
Jay_idk im lookin at the kit all it says is aluminum extruder still looking but yea its pla
mattwj2002Auzze is DesignSpark Mechanical free?
shaun4133hello reifsnyderb
shaun4133ignoring me i see
Auzzemattwj2002 very free,
mattwj2002thank you sir!
mattwj2002sweet it is downloading at 4 MB/s MB not Mb
recon_lap1airking: try this
Jay_idk ill be back in a bit gnna drop this down put the extruder back in and re calibrate it
recon_lap1airking: or maybe get a uptodade copy of marlin
mattwj2002Auzze this isn't a virus is it?
Jay_maybe when i come back you guys might give me some input on maybe a diferent model that may be easier to print, im trying to get away from this 4x4 build also i already have a printrbot heated bed and thermister that im not using
recon_lap1airking: anyways , you into quite an involved process
recon_lap1airking: and it's getting late
Auzzemattwj2002 a virus...
recon_lap1airking: if you get a upto date copy of marlin you'll have to copy the values from the old configuration.h to the new configuration.h
airkingrecon_lap1: I have no idea what this means
Auzzemattwj2002 don't be silly..
airkingthis pastebin is super confusing
mattwj2002sorry :(
recon_lap1airking: I know, thats why it's an involved process
mattwj2002Auzze: I had a date on Saturday night
Auzzemattwj2002 a date, whats that
airkingI give up for the night
airkingI'll pick it up tomorrow
mattwj2002you pick up a nice lady
mattwj2002you go to a movie and a dinner
mattwj2002and then you take her back home
Auzzemattwj2002 i'm 32 years married, i think the wife would be very pissed if i picked up a girl
mattwj2002Auzze: I am 32!
mattwj2002you could be my dad!
recon_lap1airking: I'm off as well, g'luck getting it compiled
Auzzemattwj2002 the only i date I get is shopping day
mattwj2002oh crap 33
mattwj2002in a few months
shaun4133who wants my printers?
shaun4133im selling
mastag25rae they
shaun4133i3 and romax
recon_lap1I just dont see how the hotbed could be connected to the D9 pins?
Auzzeheatbed goes on D8
recon_lap1Auzze: yes, but the fan connected to d9 is making noise when the hotbed is powered?
kthxm140 is set bed temperature. Example M140 S10
recon_lap1well, I don't know. something odd.
Auzzeis there 12V on d9
recon_lap1Auzze: it's airking's printer. think I'm leaving it alone for tonight
AuzzeOk, I think he gave up for the night
Auzzewell I'm off to do some work.. later
Shane_i have a reprap mendel, if i want to change the extruder nozzle, for filament that is larger, or a nozzle that is smaller, do I need to change any parts other then the nozzle? I am looking at .2 and .3 nozzles for maybe more percision?
recon_lap1shaun4133: are you flouncing !!!
shaun4133idk wtf that means
EvRideughh, ok, finally...
EvRideterramir: uploads larger than 8mb are allowed now, lolol
arjenAUShane_, well anything you print thereafter needs to be sliced differently. just keep that in mind if you have existing gcode stored. you can't just reprint that with the new hardware.
EvRideapparently some web services hadn't completely restarted when I changed the config
arjenAUShane_, can you clarify the "filament that is larger" bit? not sure what you mean.
terramirreifsnyderb !!!! woot!!! hi
EvRideuploads up to 480mb are allowed now
shaun414hello reifsnyderb
reifsnyderbHi terramir!
terramirevride kk
recon_lap1o/ g'night
shaun414SAY HELLO TO ME reid
shaun414WHY WONY YOU
terramirhey reifs how are you?
jossm_my perimters are pretty, my first layer is pretty... my infill is crap, though, full of holes, sputtering
jossm_ugly ugly
jossm_even 100% infill on the top few layers is full of holes
arjenAUShane_, I'm sure you can write here.
jossm_bridges don't really work
Shane_i have 1.75 mm pla and abs, i was going to try some 3.0 mm pla and abs would that require a 3.0 mm nozzle? and should i want to go down in nozzle and get a .2 nozzle, does the size of the filament matter?
mastag25you will need a nozzle + hotend that accepts 3mm
NETioGoing to a 36tooth pulley from a 20tooth would result in dercreased accuracy and faster movements, correct?
Artesiananyone have tips for keeping nylon spooled?
Artesianit just wants to explode all over my printing area
Artesianso springy
arjenAUShane_, not really, but the slicer needs to know as it needs to control the extruder appropriately - a thicker filament needs less push to deliver more plastic to the heating barrel.
NETioArtesian: It's on a spool right?
arjenAUShane_, opinions differ, but several bright people reckon that 3mm filament works just fine even for pretty high precision work.
terramirreifsnyderb: I printed this the other day :p for a prusa 2 no cracks pretty good :p
kthx => => 0 comments, 8 IRC mentions
arjenAUShane_, in your case, the really important bit is to check that your heating barrel can actually take 3mm, if it's been using 1.75. it mustn't be too narrow.
NETioShane_: Understand that a 0.2mm nozzle will be very, very hard to setup properly
Shane_and what about smaller nozzles? do they deliver any specific performance advantages?
terramir0.2 nozzle who came up with that nut job idea 0.25 is almost impossible any lower than that is nutz
NETioShane_: I print 0.08mm layers fine with a 0.4mm nozzle.
arjenAUNETio, haven't done it myself but 0.3 doesn't appear to be an issue, given a decent extruder.
reifsnyderbterramir: Looks pretty good!
Shane_wow your print is so beautiful
NETioAnd if you've already invested in 1.75mm hotend and extruder why bother with changing?
arjenAUShane_, in theory a smaller nozzle will give you more precision. on the downside it'll be slower to print anything. it's always a trade-off.
Shane_I am just looking to optimize, not sure which areas I can gain performance, my prints definitely do not look that solid yet!
arjenAUShane_, so just to get things clear, what is your current nozzle size?
mastag25just started a print
mastag25did a couple layers
mastag25then the whole unit powered down
arjenAUShane_, no you're confusing filament diameter with nozzle diameter
NETioShane_: That was done with 1.75mm ABS filament through a 0.4mm nozzle on an E3D v5 hotend driven by a direct drive bowden extruder
Shane_that is some topdoge work
terramirNETio: yes decreased accuracy and faster movements but at 16x microstepping a 16 tooth gt2 for example has a positional accuracy of 0.01mm the outflow from the extruder won't be that accurate so anything over 16 with gt2 is overkill
NETioIf you want to go to a smaller nozzle that's fine, but understand it won't fix any existing print issues, in fact it will probably magnify any errors and make them more apparent
terramirwait a min
terramirno otherway around
NETioterramir: I'm trying to find 20tooth GT2 pulleys on amazon, can only find them from China or for like $15 each
terramirsmaller teeth smaller diameter one rotation of motor
NETioYeah, I know that
NETioI'm just thinking about the pratical differences between a 20tooth and a 32tooth
shaun414i want a cat
terramirnah 36 teeth will be faster
robotustra_the question
NETioor 36 I think, not 32
shaun414anyone here have a cat
terramir16 teeth more accuarte
robotustra_do I need a layer fun for ABS?
terramirsmaller diameter
terramirmore accuarcy slower print
terramirmy bot uses 16gft2
Computer_BarfNetio: do you have any pics of your nylon prints?
NETioComputer_Barf: Yeah, hold on
terramirmeans 1/100 of a mm per step
kthxcalibration is and is also and is also and and and is also
Computer_Barfis nylon any good for printer parts or it it too flexible>
shaun414no one has a cat?
NETioComputer_Barf: Another one. Both pics are of a vase straight off the printer.
Computer_Barfthere are three cats living in my house
Computer_BarfI'll fedex you one if you want.
NETioshaun414: I like dogs, in general. Cats are ok, just kind of solitary which can be nice
shaun414i just want some sort of friend
shaun414so i think a cat would be good
terramirNETio: 36 is faster 44.44 steps per mm, as the teeth decrease the accuracy increases, but the print will slow down
mastag25fucking weirdest shit
mastag25it just rebooted
NETioBut I enjoy the unconditional love of a dog. Cats kind of have a "F*** All Humans" attitude, not a good companion
Computer_BarfI have a half chow chow / Pomeranian and an Alaskan Malamute
shaun414dogs are ok
Shane_when i read my literature on my printer, it says nozzle diameter 3mm/1.75mm - print accuracy 0.1-0.2 - is there any other way for me to discover the actual nozzle size?
shaun414but they are dumb
NETioI disagree
Computer_Barf UHH
shaun414if its a smart dog
NETioMy labrador retriever knows far more than any cat
shaun414and not some scatty jumping dog
Computer_Barfmy malamute is smarter then all three of our cats combined
terramirthis is why I choose gt2 16 , slower more accurate prints
shaun414id need a small dog
NETioThey don't use cats for bomb sniffing, handicapped assistance, etc.
shaun414I love those dogs
NETioCats aren't dumb, just not social and just not very willing to be taught things by people
shaun414idk where to get onbe
Computer_Barfmalamute are known to chase down and kill a deer
shaun414what dogs are the best
shaun414to train
shaun414to be perfect
Shane_get a wolf, that is a doge but better
NETioshaun414: Training dogs is a lot of work
shaun414i need something to do
Computer_BarfI've actually known ppl with wolves in colorado, if you raise a wolf you HAVE to know how to be dominent and you halve to keep alpha to it.
mastag25im ALPHA
mastag25not now chief
NETioshaun414: You can pretty much get a cat and give it a box to shit in and a bowl of food and water. Replinish food and water regularly and remove detritus from box and give it a few toys to bat around from time to time and it's set for life
mastag25im in the fucking zone
shaun414i want a dog
mastag25my cats are too affectionate
mastag25they want love all the time =/
shaun414i want something to love me
mastag25and one purrs when you look at it
Computer_BarfIf your going to raise a wolf you need to raise something like a huskey or malamute or a wolf mix first. A wolf that isn't raised right can become a real problem.
mastag25im going to try and record with my camera and live stream my next print
mastag25actually that seems kinda pointless heh
NETiocats do appreciate petting and such, but I feel like at that point you're simply providing a service to them that they enjoy. It's not true love IMO. Although I have seen cats that love their owner and are fiercly loyal to their owner. But the majority of cats, IME, are not "loyal" like dogs
mastag25ill just save the recording im livestreaming
shaun414i like dogs
mastag25what about that cat the saved the kid
mastag25it scared off the dog that was attacking the child
shaun414what about the cat that attacked the family
shaun414and yehy called the cops
shaun414trapped in the bathroom
mastag25i remember that
mastag25i think it was on tv
Computer_BarfI made Tteokbokki tonight for dinner NOM NOM
mastag25what is that
Computer_Barfkorean thick rice noodle spicy kinda dish
Computer_BarfKorean snacks and comfort food is the reals
Artesianhow do I make a print slow down without activating cooling?
ArtesianI'm printing taulman 645 nylon
Artesiantough to get the retract numbers right :(
Computer_Barfi found out about Tteokbokki from the korean snack chips , which are also good
mastag25i went to bed and you went for a snack
mastag25i get home you are eating more snacks
Computer_Barfwell technically, im eating a meal, that is the original, of a snack i am referring to.
Computer_BarfI found out about the meal, from the snack. The snack impersonates the meal. They are both excellent.
Computer_Barfif you do not believe I have other white dudes that will affirm my position.
mastag25starting print
mastag25huge fail
mastag25filament was stuck on spool
Computer_BarfHe's totaly wrong about the spicyness in his video, The snacks start off seeming just sweet, by the time you finish the bag your mouth is burning.
mastag25take 2 >_>
kthxclog is and is also
Computer_Barfso mastag25: I have lots of korean snacks to recommend so find your closest korean supermarket and I will point everyone with a 3d printer to endless awsome korean snacks. Maybe I start a cooking show called: Whitie invades YOUR culture!
shaun414anyone want to buy me some fish
SystemsGuy2shaun413 - I'm sitting on the beach - want me to bring you a fish?
mastag25this print is already starting badly
SystemsGuy2kthx tell ccecil the sand is warm. :)
kthxSystemsGuy2: I'll pass that on when ccecil is around.
shaun414aquarium fish
shaun414not beach fish
SystemsGuy2where do you think aquarium fish come from shaun414? :)
SystemsGuy2get a real aquarium
SystemsGuy2byte me shaun413 :)
Computer_Barfstart an aquaponics setup
shaun414i cant afford
Computer_Barfwell you have a printer
Computer_Barfyou essentially would just need an acceptable bed and pump
shaun414doesnt mean anyhting
shaun414printer cant do anything for that
shaun414and lighting LOL
shaun414you are leaving the most expenive part out
Computer_Barfi mean a 55 gallon drum is like 15 bucks
Computer_Barfand then you need the right kind of values which you could print
Computer_Barfand you could print brackets for a frame and use something cheap and free as the structure work
Computer_Barfand why lights.. Put it outside
SystemsGuy2shaun414 needs something that costs less than a Big Mac or he's not interested.
mastag25dat live stream up
shaun414i just have no money
Computer_Barfsounds like he sould be more concerned with capital equipment than spending on general consumption
Computer_Barfproduce something people want, and devise a method for producing it in bulk.
Computer_Barfwell thats were money comes from.
Computer_Barfyou produce a good or service.
SystemsGuy2shaun414's a firm believer in having it given to him on a silver platter.
shaun414no im no
Computer_Barfor at least, that's how you produce material wealth, which is worth money.
shaun414im not given anything
shaun414not even love
SystemsGuy2who pays for your Intertubes shaun414?
shaun414the people who dont like me
SystemsGuy2umm hmmm. Mom's gonna be pissed you forgot her !:)
shaun414f her
Computer_Barfoh i asked this before but no one responded.. Is nylon prints acceptable material for structural printer parts?
SystemsGuy2Computer_Barf - yes "but". It's a challenge to print a lot of parts without warping in Nylon.
SystemsGuy2Computer_Barf - I printed a mini kossel delta in Taulman 618, but the bottom verticies (motor mounts) warped badly.
Computer_Barfhumm. sounds not as friendly as would be best
mattwj2002my part is designed and it is even in openscad
Gadzook8Hey, I have a question about the ramps 1.4 board, can anybody help me?
mattwj2002does anyone know anything about part licensing?
SystemsGuy2maybe Gadzook8 - what's the question?
Gadzook8Thanks so much SystemsGuy2, ok, so my question is, I have a ramps 1.4 board with an arduino mega 2560, and I put Main on the arduino, and then plugged in 1 stepper controler, and 4 pin 12v connecter fram a atx powersupply into the ramps, and finally one steeper motor into the board, but then i tryed to home the motor useing pronterface (just to see that it worked) but then the stepper junt vibrated for a bit and stopped, do you have an
SystemsGuy2Gadzook8 - you should take a look at the following links. Chances are the current settings on your drivers are not correct for your stepper.
kthxpots is see pot
kthxpot is and is also the potentiometer on the stepper drivers and is also and is also legal in Colorado
RoyOnWheels|MTWSystemsGuy2 ... sounds like a bad sequel ;P
Gadzook8Thank you so much, I aprechiate it
Gadzook8Incidentally im from colorado
Artesiananyone know how to mod a bowden hotend to become direct?
SystemsGuy2RoyOnWheels|MTW - I'm on the beach in Mexico - more link a bad echo :)
Artesianor suggest a good 1.75mm hotend?
ArtesianI have 5 3mm hotends but nothing for 1.75 filaments
SystemsGuy2Artesian - hard to beat a j-head if you print PLA :)
ArtesianI'm going to print high temperature exotics with it
Artesianand I broke my jhead already :p
Artesiannylon, PET, etc etc
SystemsGuystick with 3mm :)
ArtesianI am personally, but sometimes the experimental stuff only comes in 1.75mm varieties
mattwj2002anyone want to see my thingy?
SystemsGuyI don't know of a proven 1.75mm high temp hotend.
SystemsGuyyou could always try one of the qu-bd's, but I've not seen or heard much on theirs lately Artesian
kthx => => 0 comments, 1 IRC mention
mattwj2002please any input would be greatly appreciated
Artesianah thanks, I'll take a look
MattyMattisn't prusanozzle 1.75mm?
RoyOnWheels|MTWno 3mm
RoyOnWheels|MTWhe didn't want challenge of 1.75
shaun414helloi people
shaun414how are you guys
SystemsGuywhere's prusa been hiding RoyOnWheels|MTW?
MattyMatthow about a makergear one? maybe with a fan at the top to condition the heatzone to modern taste?
MattyMattand to keep the ptfe intact
RoyOnWheels|MTWSystemsGuy no idea, probably good busy
SystemsGuyRoyOnWheels|MTW - hope so :P
MattyMattmattwj2002, does that go over the cable from the other end?
mattwj2002hi mattymatt
mattwj2002what do you mean?
MattyMattit looks like there's no way to get it off once bothe ends of the cable are screwed down, assuming they have F connector at both ends
mattwj2002MattyMatt you keep it on
mattwj2002it is suppose to help you with twisting the cable on and off
mattwj2002give you a little more torque
MattyMattif it had a slot, and handles like a fawcett, it could be reused
mattwj2002good point
MattyMattin a similar vein, the drill bit handles in the More from Hand Tools. I use a tap wrench for that
MattyMattand they all have wing handles
MattyMattah, they aren't yours
SystemsGuykik at te guy trying to chatch it at 1.40 RoyOnWheels|MTW
MattyMattkijk op het jongen wie leest at half zes in de morgen
MattyMattikke ben!
MattyMatt4.54, meant to say half five but I'm too late for that
MattyMattNL is 1 hour ahead, but they say half 5 at 4.30 :)
MattyMattmeh, anyway
MattyMattgm shaun if you're still here
MattyMattfuck, the battery in these $47 tabs is dreadful. it's gone flat twice since I took my pdf to bed
MattyMattit's a good job this is for mounting permanently on the printer, and not for pdfs :)
MattyMattthe software is already written, although not open source unfortunately
MattyMattping shaun
MattyMattirc is working, I thought you might like confirmation
shaun413Not really
MattyMattI occasionally find myself monologueing to a dead connection
MattyMattthinking out loud
MattyMattliterally, model M clacky keyb